Bernina Fan Club Archives

October 95

Sunday, October 1st - Saturday, October 7th

Date: Sun,  1 Oct 95 04:00:00 UTC
Subject: Re: Machine for a 5 year old

I bought a used machine for my daughter after trying a toy.  They just
aren't worht it.  But I did buy a finger guard so that she could not get
 her finger under the needle.  Worked really well too.  Having sewn my own
 fingers a couple of times now that was a big concern for me.  But these
 guards even protect my fingers.  donna n
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 00:36:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Walking foot warranty issue

Skondis...exactly which warranty is invalidated by the modifications
recommended by Harriet Hargrave?
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 1995 08:25:52 -0400
Subject: sewing machines for children

I just wanted to add my .02 about a machine to teach kids to sew.
When I was growing up (in India) I did all my schooling in Catholic
convents. The nuns had mandatory sewing classes for everyone starting
with the 6th grade (I think I was about 10 then). They taught everything
from various kinds of embroidery, knitting, crochet and cutting/sewing.
Since ready made patterns were not really available in India (I dont
think they still are), they also taught some pattern drafting techniques.
My mother had a Singer Featherweight at home, which she'd bought in Canada
in the 50's, and I learnt to sew on that. The only problem was, that for
the exams, we had to sew on one of the machines with the foot pedal. So
I had to go and practise with a friend's machine (I had the hardest time
getting the machine to sew forward!). Anyway, although the Featherweight
only had the straight stitch, I got all the techniques I needed by
using that machine. 
I dont know if I would let my daughter use my Bernina! Of course, she's
only a year old and I've had my Bernina only for two weeks, so I might
change my mind! 
I do agree that teaching the kids on a reliable machine is a good idea -
frustration can set in very easily!

Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 10:10:45 -0400
Subject: Need Help!!!

I reaize that this may not be the proper place to post this question but
everyone seem to be so knowledgeable on so many subjects! I want to purchase
a quilting program and  have narrowed my search down to Quilt Pro and
Electric Quilt.I have not been able to completly download either one so have
not actually seen them in action. So I decided to rely on feedback from those
that have either one and use them.
I have not been a quilter for very long, a couple of years, have done mostly
baby quilts and lap throws. I love applique, either by hand or machine and do
a lot of fabric embellishment. I also do a lot of paper foundation work and
want to get into miniature work. I have a real problem with visulizing a
finished square and putting colors together. Just laying out some fabric
doesn't do it, I need to see the actual square finished. I put much more time
into my sample block then I feel I should. There are times when I could have
made the whole top in the length of time it takes to make  samples and decide
which is the one to use! (someday I will make all my samples into a
quilt!)Please e-mail me or post here, I really appreaciate any help you may
give me!
Thanks in advance, Phyllis
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 1995 11:18:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Walking Foot

On 30-SEP-1995 10:26:28.9 Bernina said 
   > The Bernina walking foot for the 1630 is part number 003 208 70 00;
   >believe me the correct foot makes a big, big difference.  I had a 1530
   >previous to buying the 1630 and thought I could use the 1530 walking
   >foot on the 1630. Since the feed dogs are further apart on the 1630
   >than on the 1530, the 1530 walking foot does not work well at all on
   >the 1630. Incidentally, the 1630 walking foot was one of the first
   >additional feet that Bernina brought out, primarily because it does
   >make such a big difference.  One of the other ones is the edge stitch
   >foot; the 1530 edge stitch foot does not work well on the 1630.  The
   >1630-coded version works great.

   Gosh thanks so much for straightening me out.  I have been using the
walking foot I bought with my 1530 on my 1630.  Have not been too impressed
with it at all.  That has GOT to be why.   SOOOOO
  If anyone out there is interested in buying a good one year old walking
foot altered to Harriets H's specifications that fits all bernies EXCEPT the
1630 please e-mail me.  I can put the money twords the purchase of the right

Patty S
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 12:32:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Rotary Mat

  > Has anyone had any success in straightening a warped rotary mat?  I 
  > was always so careful with mine until the one time I forgot and left 
  > it in the car.  I am ready to toss it, but thought I would make one 
  > last effort and ask here.
put it back into the car on something flat to get it to flatten back out!
Sounds like it might work...

Date: Sun,  1 Oct 95 17:42:00 UTC
Subject: Bernina Digest 9/30/95

   Got your letter and your books will go flying to you on Monday, August
2nd.  Watch your mailbox.  Hugs.
Date: Sun,  1 Oct 95 19:08:00 UTC
Subject: Bernina Factory

 Rightfully depressed! How awful for you. Maybe your dealer has a loaner or
rental you could use until yours is fully recovered.
I'm no expert on printed circuit boards, but my husband works in that
industry in Silicon Valley (CA). In the early days of printed circuit
boards, all of the electronics were soldered down to the board and so the
whole board had to be replaced it it conked out. Now there are many plug in
modules (like memory on your mother board) and diagnostic tools, so the
whole board no longer has to be replaced.
It's too bad BOA has to wait to get the bad board back before sending out a
new one. Are you under warranty still?
If you keep eating that chocolate, BOA is going to owe you a membership in
Jenny Craig! Try sucking your thumb for a while. :)
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 1995 16:02:13 -0500
Subject: Used 234 Serger

Anyone need a used 234 Serger in the Dallas Fort Worth area?
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 17:42:01 -0400
Subject: Re: DECO

Yet another day having fun with this machine.  I can't wait because a week
from Monday I take my class at the dealer.  I have been doing simple
projects, and today I used it to "sign" another craft I made.  It is so nice
to be able to quickly embroider a quick to/from, date, etc on the back of a
project.  I used a combination of the Holiday card and the Alphabet card to
put a Happy Anniversary Greeting on a table runner/tree skirt set I was
finishing for my parents anniversary.   I also embroidered some holly leaves
on the top of the table runner.  I have mostly been playing around and hope
to learn more in class.  I think one of the nicest aspects is that it isn't
very stressful;  after a long day at work I can appreciate that it is pretty
easy to use.  If I didn't work such long hours maybe a fancier setup with a
computer would be better, but I just don't have the time!

I got some sample spools of thread from Madeira and have experimented with
the NEON polyester;  it really worked well, for the price it really is great.
 I plan to order some this week.  Any comments on how the rayon vs polyester
threads would hold up after washing?  

I also like the idea of the grape leaves on a wine bottle cover.  What a good

Back to the machine.........

ps.  I too have been having dreams of "B's" all over my clothes - my friends
at work are convinced that's about all you'd use this machine for.  
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 95 20:39:13 -0500
Subject: More LOL - New Topic Beginning

Hi Everyone, 

Sorry to take so long to start our second topic for Lessons On Line (Dad had 
surgery in mid september &life's been hectic).  I thought that this time we'd 
talk about a technique AND a foot.  The technique for LOL part 2 is Satin Stitch 
Applique and the foot is the open toe embroidery foot #20.  Now, we can of 
course discuss more uses for the #20 foot than satin stitching, but I did think 
that the two sort of went together.  : )

So just as before, the floor is now open or all hints, tips, questions &
answers.  Please be sure to put LOL in the subject line of your message so those 
not wishing to partcipate can skip these postings.  Lets start off saying 2 
weeks for these topics (we can always extend the time if needed.)  The lessons 
will be summarized on the BFC home page ( and will be 
available via e-mail for those who don't have web access.  (Please e-mail me for 
a summary of our #12 foot discussion if you can't get to the web page, just put 
#12 foot summary in your subject line).

Can't wait to hear from all of you talented Bernina owners.

Sue T
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 22:41:59 -0400
Subject: Warped rotary mat

I have not used a rotary mat before, but I would think that if yours warped
from the heat of being in the car, the way to unwarp it might be to re-heat
it (by leaving it out in the car again) till it's flexible, then place in on
a flat floor, weighted down if necessary by heavy books over the entire
surface, until it cools off.

Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 23:30:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Quilting Stitch on 1090

Rejoice, you 1080 and 1090 owners!!  You CAN do the quilting stitch - just
use the honeycomb stitch with the same settings instead of the feather
stitch.  I get the best results with the honeycomb on the 1080, 1090, 1260

HEY --

somebody post those settings again PLEASE.  I discarded them thinking they
were useless to me &my 1090


Date: 01 Oct 95 22:30:55 EDT
Subject: Walking Foot

I've been reading all the messages about the walking foot.  I have a new 1090
and have used my walking foot to quilt a small wallhanging.  After reading the
messages, I checked the number on my foot and it is the one that is supposed
to be for the 1630.  I didn't think the 1630 feet fit the other Berninas but
the walking foot was great on my 1090.  I guess I better talk to my dealer
tomorrow when I go for my last guide class!

Date: 01 Oct 95 22:30:59 EDT
Subject: Basic Bernina Book

Does the Jan Saunders book apply to the 1090 ? If not, does anyone know of
another that might be good.  My dealer suggested the Bernina guide supplements
but they are pretty costly (about $70) compared to the "Step by Step" book. 
Thanks in advance !

Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 22:25:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Buttonholes AARGH!!!

The #3a buttonhole foot doesn't like lumps or uneven surfaces.  Trim more 
seam allowance away and place the button holes in a little further so the 
foot doesn't rest on the seam allowance or use the #3 buttonhole foot (three 

Edith P
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 22:26:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Rotary Mat

Put it back into a hot car take it out before it cools and place it on a 
flat surface

Edith P
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 22:30:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Bernina Factory

I think this is outragous being without your machine for over a month you 
should ask for a new machine.  I would write to Bernina.  Where have all 
the good sewing machine repairmen gone????

Edith P
Date: 2 Oct 1995 08:37:41 -0400
Subject: RE: Rotary Mat

A previous quiltnet message had a solution to this and I saved it for future
reference.  The woman preheated her oven to 140 degrees and put the mat in
for 3 to 4 minutes.  Then she removed it, put it on a flat surface, and
weighted it down with books overnight.  She said it was as good as new.
Subject: RE: Rotary Mat
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 95 11:51:00 DST

My daughter left my large mat in the car also on a hot summer day.  I could 
have cried when I saw it.  I, too, could not think of anything to do but 
throw it away.  I believe the directions tell you to keep it out of the 
heat.  I'm sorry.

Carol R
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 08:47:14 -0700
Subject: "hand quilted" look


Thanks for the info about using monofilament and adjusted tension to get a 
"hand-quilted" look.

One question for the group:  Judy says that 1080/1090 machines don't have the 
feather stitch - I seem to remember in the last couple of weeks something about 
'faking' this stitch for those of us without it.  Can anyone tell me?  I think 
it was something like +28 on the balance and something else, but maybe memory is
teasing me.


Date: Mon, 2 Oct 95 14:30:31 EDT
Subject: machine for a 5 yo?

> My 5 (almost) yr old son wants to learn to sew.  DH has no problem w/ this
> his dad was a taylor.  He also wants his own machine.

My 5 yo just finished his first pair of shorts.  He was so proud of himself!  I 
instigated the whole process, so you will have less resistance to the process 
than I did.  I would not get him his own machine at this time.  Brian only had 
an attention span of 1/2 hr.  I let him use my Bernina 1230, which I set at half
speed.  I sat behind him and helped guide the fabric.  For the time being, I 
would let your son share your machine so that you can share the fun of sewing 
with him!

Debra D
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 14:56:10 -0400
Subject: Re: 1/4" foot

>I have read a lot of comments about the #37 1/4" foot.  I presently use the
>Little Foot which works fine but doesn't always give a lot of control under
>the presser foot.  Am interested in the #37 for my 930.  Does anyone know if
>the #37 will work on my machine?

I bought the #37 foot a couple of years ago when I started on my Jazz
Jacket and it works like a dream on my 830.  I don't think you will have
any problem at all with your 930.  I have loaned my feet to a friend that
has a 930 and they worked fine.  I find myself using the 37 a lot in
regular sewing, instead of the 000.

Peggy Q
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 15:55:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Bernina Factory

>I think this is outragous being without your machine for over a month you
>should ask for a new machine.  I would write to Bernina.  Where have all
>the good sewing machine repairmen gone????
>Edith P

I have been corresponding with a lady in England, she ordered a 1530 from a
dealer and had been waiting for over two months for her machine.  After
talking about it for a couple of days, I wrote her back and suggested she
contact the Bernina Company regarding delivery.  She sent a fax to the
company and had her machine in 10 days!

Write to the company, complain, cry, be an annoying person....I bet you get

Peggy Q
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 15:57:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Warped Rotary Mat

>I have not used a rotary mat before, but I would think that if yours warped
>from the heat of being in the car, the way to unwarp it might be to re-heat
>it (by leaving it out in the car again) till it's flexible, then place in on
>a flat floor, weighted down if necessary by heavy books over the entire
>surface, until it cools off.

This sounds really logical, but believe me it doesn't work.

Peggy Q
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 14:57:49 -0700
Subject: Bernina Web Site

The Bernina Web Page for those with access is:

Most of it is currently in German, but as was mentioned, still appears to be in 
the construction stages.  There is also a hyper text link from the World Wide 
Quilting Page.  I just happened upon this by doing a search from Netscape for 
Bernina and found it a few weeks ago.

There is also a link to this Fan Club on the World Wide Quilting Page!

Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 20:13:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Bernina DECO Cards

Yes the Brother does work just great with the Bernina.  I really don't know
what the differance is.  The dealer gave me the price because he had several
left in the store and when he had to order the price would go up.  If anyone
knows what the diff. is please E Mail
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 20:57:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Rotary Mat

I think your best bet is to wait for a sale and buy another one.  I warped my
mat when I set a hot tea cup on it.  The mat flattened back out fine, but the
one inch spacing was no longer uniform.

Good luck

Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 18:06:26 -0400
Subject: LOL: machine applique

Funny you should bring this up right now when I am in the midst of a BIG
machine applique project, my original design Noah's Ark, for my
granddaughter. I am, of course, using the #20, open toed applique foot, which
is a must. Recently I discovered that if you are satin stitching a piece made
of print fabric, and don't want that hard one-color line around it, you can
use the monofilament thread. On darker prints, satin stitch with the smoky
color and on lighter ones, use the clear. If you have both light and dark in
the print, stick to the clear.  I like it so much better than a one-color
satin stitch, as you can hardly even see it.

Mary M
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 20:36:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Rotary Mat

>Has anyone had any success in straightening a warped rotary mat?  I 
>was always so careful with mine until the one time I forgot and left 
>it in the car.  I am ready to toss it, but thought I would make one 
>last effort and ask here.

This may already have been answered--but try putting it under something
completely flat for a few days. When I'm not using it,  I keep mine stored
between my cutting board (cardboard) and the cutting table so it's always
flat.  Maybe this would help?

Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 20:36:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Walking Foot

>  If anyone out there is interested in buying a good one year old walking
>foot altered to Harriets H's specifications that fits all bernies EXCEPT the
>1630 please e-mail me.  I can put the money twords the purchase of the right

Patti - I am DEFINITELY interested!  I have an 1130--it would work on it?
How much?

Date: Tue,  3 Oct 95 01:47:00 UTC
Subject: Basic Bernina Book

Does that "Step by Step" talk about the 930?
Subject: reply to Preethi
Date: 02 Oct 1995 21:48:21 GMT

Hi!  I am Dennie coming thru my DH (Roger Sullivan's Internet connection)/ 
This is my first post to the BFC and may I add this is great fun!   I have
had a 1090 since Sept. 93 and as a quilter mainly, I love it.

To Preethi:  The "Heirloom Machine Quilting" book by Harriet is certainly a
great book.  Also there is a new one that you might find helpful as well: 
"Machine Quilting Made Easy" by Maurine Noble; its a Patchwork Place
publication and not as expensive as Harriet's "biggie" but very easy to

m:  Believe it or not, I use monofilament in my bobbin frequently when
machine quilting so the reverse side of my work won't look like a "scramble"
with all the different metallics and rayon colors I use on the top.  I
haven't had any problems at all! 

Skondis:  You did a good job explaining how to attach the walking foot...I do
it exactly that way and use it frequently with none of the mentioned
problems.  In fact I think it is terrific for quilting, binding, etc.

Is the Jan Saunders book only applicable to the 1530 and 1630 or would I find
it informative for a 1090? 

TIA  Dennie
Date: 02 Oct 95 23:07:55 EDT
Subject: Rotary Mat


Try hot water soak in your bath tub, then lay it flat while it cools off, or a
blow dryer.  Mine got a bubble in it because I set a hot cup of coffee on it
soooooo.  I did it again and then put a stack of heavy books on it till it
cooled.  I t took care of it.

Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 00:27:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Warped Mat

Mine flattened out by laying it on a clean sheet on the driveway...the
Houston heat worked wonders and I use the mat everyday...
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 1995 16:39:11 EDT
Subject: I'm NOT under warranty!

Dear Petchy,

I don't think I'm under warranty anymore, but my 1630 is.  I'm glad I 
still have my 930 as a backup.  I would be in the nut house by now, 
for sure!

Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 08:32:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Rotary Mat

  I have the same problem but just use it a little curled.  My friend did 
streighten hers.  She put it in her oven  low heat...and WATCHED IT.  It 
does lay flat but the lines are distorted.  I want the lines to cut streight
as I already have a mat with no lines.  The heat of the oven distorted the
paint used to mark the mat.  With this method one has to choose FLAT OR 

                      Happy Sewing,
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 10:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Warped Rotary Mat

Yes, I agree.  The map got it's own memory and couldn't be fixed.
I had the same mistake that I left that in the car under the sun
sun between two flat cubbroad paper about 10 hours... I tried to
fixing: re-rolling it, iron it, weighted it with heavy objects,
heating it with bioling water and leave it on the flat surface, any
other ways that people tell me.  In the end, I bought a new one :(

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 13:10:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: "little irons" &pad

Thank you everyone for your help and advice.  I should have paid more 
attention in class to the small irons.  This weekend, I found a steam 
travel iron for $16.95 and bought it.  I think it will work out great.

Someone asked about the small ironing pad.  In class, they were all sizes, 
but all looked homemade.  I would suspect that they had a board inside (not 
plywood because the glue might smell or run) and then were wrapped with 
something thick (an old ironing pad, towel, etc.)  One had a silicone cover 
and another figured fabric.  They were hand stitched around the edges or if 
the covers were made like a pillowcase, they were stitched on the open 
edge so that the cover was tight around the pad.  Most were about 12" 
square or about 12" x 14".   Hope that helps.

Verna W
Date: 03 Oct 95 16:40:42 EDT
Subject: FYI : Walking Foot

I checked with my Bernina dealer as to why they gave me a 1630 walking foot
for my 1090.  I was told that Bernina is going to sell only the one walking
foot (the 1630 one) because it is wider to accomodate the wider feed dogs on
the 1630 and this seems to work well on other Berninas as well.  Just thought
I'd let y'all know !

Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 17:51:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Bernina Digest 10/1/95

For some reason I haven't gotten my mail lately, I missed everyone!
Well, I think I am setting a new predisent in Bernina history.

I am trading down.
I am going from a 1630 to a 1530.  Here is why.  I recently purchased a Deco,
foolishly I didn't get the scanner at the time.  I should have with the no
interest deal, but I didn't.  Since I have gotten the Deco, I haven't used
one embroidery stitch on the 1630.  I haven't used the keys at all, so I
figured, why not trade down, then use the difference towards the scanner.  
Make sense?
I'm still not happy with the stitch quality of the 1630, it just isn't the
Hope it all works out.

Date: Tue,  3 Oct 95 23:05:00 UTC
Subject: Re: Bernina Factory

what is their fax #.
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 16:58:41 -0700
Subject: LOL - Satin Stitch

Ok, I have some questions regarding the Satin Stitch on my 1130.  I tried it a 
couple of times and wasn't too successful.  It seemed slow, took lots and lots 
of thread and puckered terribly.  What can I do to get a nice looking stitch???

Date: Wed,  4 Oct 95 00:24:00 UTC
Subject: Re: Rotary Mat

I'm wondering if you could weight the mat down flat and then go over it with
a blow dryer for a few minutes.
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 21:46:45 -0400
Subject: Deco Card

 I just heard from the brother dealer that brother makes bernina deco, which
means the cards can be interactive. 

Subject: Good Repairmen 
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 21:27:06 -0500

If you live anywhere near Milwaukee, WI, there is a FANTASTIC Bernina
dealer/repairman there.  His name is Heintz and the store name is
Bigsby's.  Heintz *taught* Bernina repair in the factory in
Switzerland for 15 years and he guarantees a 2 day turnaround on your

Also, if you live near Chicago, the place for repairs in Linda Z's.
Tom has been repairing Berninas for nearly 20 years and he learned
from Heintz.  If you're in a real bind, you can call Tom and he will
do your repair in a day.  Usual turnaround time is 1-2 weeks.

I don't have Linda Z's address or phone but Bigsby's is:  18305 Lisbon
Rd., Brookfield, WI 53045  (414) 781-1177.

Hope this helps a few people at least.

Date: Wed,  4 Oct 95 01:30:00 UTC
Subject: Nice Letter

I wanted you all to know that I had a very nice letter today from Barbara,
the lady who works at the Bernina store in ABQ who I have always thought was
very pleasant and professional. I won't go into the details of the letter,
but I was very pleased to get it and just want to go on record to that
effect. I think I could feel comfortable going to classes in the store now.
Thanks to so many of you who offered me private support and encouragement
during this stressful situation for me. I am not a combative person and this
has been extremely stressful. This is a great group of people on this list,
both creatively and in heart. :)
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 95 10:22:57 -0400
Subject: re: "little iron" &pad

I just saw an ad for a little iron in the new Quilters Newsletter Magazine.  
It looks really compact. I'll look at it again tonight and post more info 
tomorrow, ie: brand name, specs, etc.

I read about using the cardboard thing inside fabric bolts (don't know the 
official word) for a portable ironing surface.  Wrap it up and iron on it. It 
is lightweight and sturdy.  I got one from my local quilt shop.  

Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 10:26:22 -0400
Subject: Jan Saunders' book

Dennie and Chris (and anyone else who wonders--the book is designed for the
1230 and earlier and doesn't really apply to higher numbers where the
stitches and feet are different.  Where the 1230 differs from machines with
lower numbers the author specifies the different stitches or techniques to
use.  It arrived at work on Monday and I did sneak in a bit of time reading
it--it looks yummie.  Although it is still apparently available in catalogues
(and therefore cheaper than from the publisher), the publisher and my local
bookseller both told me that it is out of print.  So you probably should get
it quickly--if you have trouble finding it e-mail me privately and I'll dig
up the publisher's phone number for you in suburban Philadlephia--I paid
$19.50 plus 2.50 shipping and handling plus Pa. sales tax (6%) which doesn't
apply if you're out of state.  I think Clotilde sells it for $ 16.00
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 11:28:16 -0400
Subject: Reloading bobbin in midseam

I have a question... can anyone suggest a sure-fire way to replace the
bobbin in midseam (where one always runs out :) without interrupting the
seam (without cutting the top thread).  I'd appreciate your input 

Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 12:02:28 -0400
Subject: Jan Saunder's book

There have been so many questions lately about Jan Saunder's "Step by Step to
Your Bernina" book. I would like to try to clear this up once and for all. I
have looked at probably all of her "Step by Step" books (there are several;
one is generic, one is for New Home 8000, one is for Viking 1100, and the
Bernina is for the 1230 -- those are all that I am aware of)

The main content of all the books is sewing projects, and they are the same
from book to book with suggested settings for your machine. The books only
differ in the last section, where the presser feet and stitches specific to
your brand are described. (A "Stitch Encyclopedia")

This last section seems to be what is causing the most confusion. Presser
feet and suggested uses for them would of course be applicable to ALL models
of your brand. This is a very helpful section if you have ever wondered just
what a specific presser foot is good for.

The Stitch Encyclopedia is a gem! Here you will find myriad suggested uses
for all those basic and utility stitches on your machine, no matter what
model Bernina you own, because each of them have basically the same stitch
selection. (except for decorative) The decorative stitches are NOT covered;
only briefly mentioned. 

So if you are wondering what to do with all the wonderful decorative stitches
on your new 1530 or 1630, don't look to this book for help. If, however, you
are not too clear on just what use all those utility stitches are, you will
be AMAZED at what Jan Saunders can do with them! The volume of ideas is
staggering, and even experienced sewers will come away inspired.

I would recommend this book to all Bernina owners no matter what model
Bernina you use. Because the book addresses all the stitches of the 1230,
newer models will include those plus more decorative. Earlier models will
have many of them.

The projects that make up the bulk of the book would be excellent for
teaching someone to sew. EVERYTHING is explained for the beginner. Those of
you who are teaching younger children would find these projects invaluable;
at the end of each is a checklist of new skills learned in that "lesson".
After the basics, the projects are listed in no particular order and could be
chosen based on interest.

I hope I have cleared up some of the mystery about this book. I myself have
the one for the Viking, and having read the Bernina book (owned by a friend)
, will not purchase it for my 830 since there is so much overlap of

Highly recommended.

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 11:58:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Hemmer feet

I was watching a Bernina sewing program recently and saw Kenneth King
demonstrate one of the hemmer feet, #66 I believe.  He mentioned this
foot was for straight hems.  He was sewing a light weight linen.

Kenneth also said there was a Bernina hemmer foot for curved hems.  Does
anyone know what number that one is and what's the difference between
the two?  Has anyone used it?
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 14:07:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Walking Foot warrenty issue

Reference made was on the foot only.  There would be no replacement on the
foot if it did not work properly.  The adjustment is meant to give better
visability but may possibly not be as effective for even feeding the variety
of fabrics it was designed for.
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 14:12:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Walking foot

The walking foot you have is the newest foot designed to fit all Bernina
machines.  This is now the only foot they make.  Enjoy!
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 17:34:34 -0400
Subject: Status of foot project

What's the status of your foot project?  It sounds like a great idea, and I
hope it will be in print sometime soon.
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 19:26:19 -0400
Subject: small ironing board

I have made 2 different ironing boards over the years. The first one was made
on a piece of plywood around which I wrapped layers of flannel and muslin. It
measures 22x30 and I keep it next to my sewing machine for quick pressing
jobs. I have used it for over 15 years and I just add a layer or two of
muslin when the surface gets dirty. I stapled the original layers onto the
wood but now that it has become so thick, I hand stitch the new layers in
place on the under side.

The 2nd board is constructed around one of the inner core boards that fabric
is wrapped around. Just ask your local fabric store to give you one. I
couldn't staple this time so I glued everything on the under side. It works
just fine and the added advantage is that it is very lightweight and packs
easily into a suitcase.

Happy stitching - Francyne
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 21:54:02 -0400
Subject: Fwd: Shopping for new machine


At 09:04 10/4/95 -0400, you wrote:
>P.S., if I haven't worn out my welcome on this topic, one more question:

That should not be a concern :)  my pleasure entirely!

> Does the automatic tension adjustment work well on the 1260?  This, along
>with buttonholes, is my other big sewing issue.  I have never gotten the
>of adjusting tension manually, and would like a machine that can do this for
>me in most circumstances.

A note about automatic tension.  There is no such thing formally as a
completely automatic tension.  However, the best machines have very
'resilient' thread tension, which is flexible enough to accomodate
variations in fabric (thickness and layers) and threads.  

Bernina's that have the oscillating CB hook (CB stands for the guy who
designed it :)  have a wonderful tension and are the ones that have the
'famous' stitch quality. Models from the mechanical 1006-1031 to the
computerized 1080-1530 all have the same hook.  The 1630 has a rotary hook
(to accommodate the 9mm stitch width and sideways motion), similar to
Pfaff's.  A rotary hook machine usually requires some fine tuning by the
user to get the upper tension right.  This has brought a lot of B. users who
traditionally have been spoiled by their 'my machine almost never requires
tension adjustments' machines to conclude that the 1630 is a dud.  However,
the 1630 is a well calibrated machine considering it's expande stitch
formation mechanism.  Something has to give when you get that wide a stitch,
with sideways motion added :)

The combination of oscillating hook, which does not twist the upper thread
as much, with a good thread pick up lever makes B. tension very resilient,
resulting overall in the most consistent stitch quality across all
applications.  Since upper tension rarely needs adjustment (even when going
from lace to a knit), people think of it as 'automatic'.  I prefer to think
of it as flexible or tolerant.

The Vikings #1 and #1+ have an automatic tension setter that actually set
the upper tension knob for you when you use the stitch adviser.  The
adviser, as you may know, is a control panel on the bottom front of the
machine.  You choose an aplication (seaming, overcasting, hemming,...) and a
fabric type (woven, knit) and thickness and the computer selects a stitch
(including length and width).  At the same time, the computer uses a servo
motor to turn the upper tendion dial to a preset setting that will usually
work best for the application chosen. Now that's all a computer's guess. The
user may have to override the computer's settings at any given time and turn
that tension dial themselves.  Overall, the feedback is that the sewing
advisor performs beautifully most of the time.

Back to Berninas. I would really recomment the 1260.   The only difference
between the 1260 and 1530 is the interface (the computer board on the front
of the machine). For clothing construction, it's the Audi Quattro (rated
best 4 whell drive car in the 80's...:) : reliable and simple to use.  Note
that whether you get a 1260 or 1530, you're getting the same mechanical
drive, motor.  The 1530 does have more bholes (which I would like) but it
uses menus and you have to roll a ball and click ok all the time to change
settings, which takes your eyes away from your sewing, forcing you to stop.
On the 1260, the 1/2 speed, needle down and other functions are right there
near the left.  You can get to them on the fly without having to refocus on
the interface. 

The buttonholes on the 1260 should be sufficient for most applications.
Actually, some of the 1530 bholes are just 'preset' variations on the basic
2. Longer stitch length for stretch, wider width for coats.  You can save
the 100's of $$ and adjust the machine yourself :)

Now for the final Bernina goodie:
The bobbins are larger in the B. Largest of all brands of machines actually.
That is worth its weight in gold.  In addition, the bobbin case has that
little hole in the finger.  When you pass the bobbin thread thru that
finger, you get that extra lower tension for your bholes, applique.  You
truly rarely have to tweak the upper tension.  If you do have to adjust the
upper tension, it's so well designed that you can return it to its normal
setting without fear of having it go awry.

Again, you can't go wrong with either a V. or a B.  The main difference is
that the V. has the edge hands down on the number of stitches (and some
automatic settings).  The B. has the edge on everything else: stregth,
speed, precision. The B. 1260 actually has the advantage of being as simple
to use as it can be.  The analog stitch width and lenght knob IMO are far
more convenient than the digital (+/-) of the Vikings'.  Try going from 1.0
to 5.0 on a digital machine and you'll envy the quick turn of the knob.  

When I first got my 1090, I couldn't believe how well even the slightest
little detail was designed on Berninas.  Swiss engineers really do their

Well, that must be at least .05 worth... :)

Enjoy your test drive(s).  It's fun to play with the machines

Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 22:22:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Need DECO Scanner Info.

I have a DECO but haven't bought the scanner yet.  I would like to understand
the advantages and disadvantages of working with the scanner, particulary
because it does represent quite and investment.  How does it work?  What type
of designs do you scan?  How does it tell what color to use?  I just can't
imagine how it converts it into instructions for the machine.  Does the end
result (a homemade embroidery card) work just like the ones you buy ready
made?  Is there any different procedure for doing the embroidery on the

I wouldn't mind making the investment if I thought it would be something I
would and could use.

Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 22:22:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Small Ironing Pad

Someone mentioned something about a small ironing pad.  I was just looking
over a book I had bought by Mary Mulari entitled "Travel Gear and Gifts to
Make".  In the book there are instructions for a fabric ironing board.  It
looks kind of neat because you can tuck the travel iron inside of it and roll
it up for travel.  I am going to try making one.  It calls for cotton fabric,
cotton batting, ribbon and piping.  I bought some of the teflon silver fabric
from Nancy's notions on sale and think I will use it on one side.

Just so happens tomorrow I am going to a class given by Ms. Mulari at All
Star Sewing Center in Melbourne, FL !  Will let everyone know if any neat
projects are demonstrated that are excuses to break out the Berninas.
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 19:37:38 -0700
Subject: 830

Hi - Judith -
        My dealer sold me an 830 for $350.  So think they ARE out there.  I
wanted something sturdy enough for pot holders, and it is doing just fine.
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 19:37:41 -0700
Subject: mr zimmerman

What am I missing? Some posts say he does not sell mail order, other posts
mention things they have ordered from him??  
        Hugs,  Andrea
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 00:05:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Portable Ironing Boards

There is a very quick and easy way to make an ironing board to carry around.
 Use plywood, Heat N Bond, batting of your choice, and covering of your
choice...just cut wood to size, use Heat N Bond to bond all the batting and
covering to the back side and you're done.  I've made and sold them in the
past for sewing machine boards and I have one that I use for iron on
transfers made just to the right size and need.  If you need further
instructions, e-mail and I'll dig out my computer file on them...

Date: Thu, 5 Oct 95 06:47:12 EDT
Subject: Re: ?? Dress forms, pressers

I've had an Elna Press for several years &love it.  It does not have
steam, but I use a spray bottle and sometimes a press cloth for wonderful
results.  It was my understanding there were problems with the steam
feature on the Singer model.  A press makes quick work of applying fusibles
and pressing fabric before cutting, among countless other things.  It is a
good investment for an avid sewer.  Enjoy!

Ruth B
Date: Thu,  5 Oct 95 11:48:00 UTC
Subject: Replacing bobbin in midstream

if you have made extra bobbins, all you have to do is pull the bobbin out,
and put the filled one in, and then, put needle down in machine, pull up
bobbin thread thru all layers, and continue sewing,  is wise to take a back
stitch or two tho.
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 08:24:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Bernina Digest 10/3/95

Does that mean I will see you next week? They say there is a great turnout
for the trunk shows. SEE YOU Pat R
Date: Thu,  5 Oct 95 09:57:46 PDT
Subject: Eura-Pro Press

I have seen this system in Sew News.  I have never heard 
anything about it here.  Does anyone have it, does it work?  
Does it hold up? It costs about $475.00 I have to drive over an 
hour just to look at it. If you have any experience with it 
please e-mail me. TIA
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 11:26:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Bernina Digest 10/1/95

In a message dated 95-10-04 10:07:48 EDT,
(Roni) writes:

>I'm still not happy with the stitch quality of the 1630, it just isn't the

Those of you "older &wiser" may have suggested this already but FYI my
Bernina club instructor mentioned this problem and said it often has to do
with the wider stich plate hole for the wider stiches.  Many people who
purchase the straight stitch plate find it solves the problem.

For what it's worth.....

Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 08:47:57 -0700
Subject: Re: satin stitch - LOL

Someone said that satin stitch was slow, it used lots and lots of thread and  

Yes, satin stitch is slow.  But you can run your machine at a pretty high speed 
if you've set up correctly.  By that I mean use the right thread in the right 
needle and with the right tension.  With metallics and specialty threads I often
have to go a little slower than with 100% cotton (either embroidery thread or 
regular 100% cotton mercerized like silk finish).

Yes, it does use a lot of thread, but the thread adds dimension to your piece.  
That's the point of a satin stitch in my opinion: to show off fabulous threads.

As far as puckering: use stabilizer paper.  I use Stitch &Tear, but Sulky makes
some, as do other brands, and I believe some people use ordinary papers too.  
You will be amazed at how this helps.

Finally, you might want to adjust the tension.  I usually scroll it down to 
about 2.5-3, that makes the upper thread wrap all the way around the bobbin 
thread in the back, I can do black thread on top on a black piece with white 
bobbin thread and I won't see a speck of white in my satin stitch.

Alternatively, you can get some really odd/interesting effects by scrolling 
tension up to 8-10.  Then the bobbin thread comes to the surface and wraps 
around the upper thread; you can get an interesting, blended stripe that way 
(bobbin colors on the edge, top thread running in the middle; not in a perfect 
straight line either - very intereresting).

If you play with it, satin stitch stops seeming such a slow process or like it 
eats up extravagant amounts of thread, and starts to give you whole new ways of 
satisfying your creativity and makes for interesting, dimensioned pieces.

Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 16:16:45 -0400
Subject: Re: No Subject

I've heard that you can use the cardboard cores from bolts of fabric to make
portable ironing boards - I presume you'd wrap it with fabric and maybe
batting first. I just buy small portable ironing boards at yard sales for $1
and take them to class. Sue M.
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 16:34:55 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Used 1230

My wife who creates "wearable art" has literally "run the whells off" her 
870 and is in the market for a used Bernina 1230. Please send any responces 

Date: Fri,  6 Oct 95 02:57:00 UTC
Subject: FWD: Shpooing for a new machin

Amen on the 1260.  I got mine used and loved reading your evaluation.  Most
 of it I was unaware of.  I just knew thatthe bernina i saw demoed did the
 best and easiest job of buttonholes and had the nicest looking stitches.  Of
 course this was 2 years ago and machines change so fast anymore ican't keep
 up with what's out there anymore.  But I've not regretted making the switch.
Date: 05 Oct 95 23:58:39 EDT
Subject: Satin Stitch

Fabric must be stable to eliminate tunneling with a satin stitch.  Cotton and
most other fabrics are not stiff enough by themselves and must be reinforced.
Some methods to try:

-- Iron freezer paper on back of fabric.  Remove after stitching.

-- Place a sheet of cheap typing paper (kind you get at the drugstore) under the
fabric and sew through both.  Remove paper after stitching.

-- When satin stitching on towels or other heavily napped material, place a
sheet of typing paper on *top* of the fabric as well as underneath to keep
stitches from getting lost in the thick fabric.  (Also loosen upper tension.)
-- Soak fabric in a half-and-half solution of water and liquid starch (available
in grocery stores among the detergents), line-dry or machine dry, and iron with
steam.  (Note: Ironing the fabric while wet will scorch the starch.  As long as
the fabric itself is not scorched, the stains will wash out; however, I much
prefer to dry the fabric before ironing.)  A quick version of this is to paint
the solution on both sides of fabric using a pastry brush &blow-dry fabric with
a hair dryer.  Some people swear by spray starch, but I find it doesn't stiffen
the fabric enough and is messier to use.

-- Stretch fabric tightly in a hoop, then slip hoop under needle with fabric
side close to feed dogs (opposite from how you would hold a hoop to do cross

My favorite is the starch method.   I use it for all of my machine appliqued
wallhangings and quilts, as there is no need to remove paper when I have
finished stitching.  Some of the other methods are likely to be more useful for
clothing embellishment.  I personally have not had much success with the hoop,
but also have not spent much time with it.

Once the fabric is stable you can concentrate on the machine.  I have a 1230 and
the following works for me:

-- Pass bobbin thread through hole in bobbin case arm.  This tightens lower
tension slightly, ensuring top thread is pulled completely under and bottom
thread does not intrude on top.

-- Use Sulky embroidery thread on top.  Regular thread is too thick for my

-- Set stitch length slightly longer than the mm setting Bernina provides (too
demanding for my skill level).

-- Use a #70 or smaller needle to minimize hole size.

-- Loosen upper tension to 3.5.  So much thread passes through the needle so
quickly in a satin stitch, I want to eliminate some of the drag.

-- Use the correct foot, e.g. #1 instead of #0.  The underside of the correct
foot has an indentation to allow the built-up satin stitches to move smoothly
along with the fabric.   At worst, the wrong foot can cause a jam on top of the
fabric; at best, it does not feed the work as evenly as is possible so stitches
are not as even as they can be.

Satin stitch can be a lot of fun once you get the hang of it.  I am currently
using it in conjunction with Steam-a-Seam to make appliqued holiday
wallhangings.  Some day I will drop the feed dogs and try lettering with it.  

Hope I have not run on too long.  This is my first posting outside the practice
forum and welcome comments.

Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 11:41:22 -0400
Subject: Instructions??

Are these instructions to opeerate the Bernina 1530?  I am lost and have
trouble would love to have instructions via E mail.  Thank you
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 12:03:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Bernina Digest 10/4/95

Re: Reloading bobbin in mid seam. 
 I haven't had any problem doing this. I usually find out that I've run out
about threeor four inches after the fact. I just raise the needle,and the foot, 
pull the needle thread back taut[above the tension disc] remove the bobbin 
case,replace in machine with full bobbin, make sure that the seam to be stitched 
is under the presser foot in the correct position[where the bobbin ran out],back 
stitch a couple of stitches, then continue on. I find that as long as the needle 
thread is taut that I don't have any thread tangle. I've used this method on all 
my Berninas without any problems.
Subject: bonfit
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 95 12:49:31 EDT

Has anybody tried the Bonfit Patterner that I have seen advertized in 
Threads Magazine?  I keep seeing it, issue after issue, and am intrigued
by the concept.  I just think it's a little expensive to send for on a 
whim. (like I need more patterns! (-:

Monica P
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 1995 13:28:50 -0400
Subject: Longer bobbin life with satin stitching

To add to Pia's post...

by loosening the top tension when satin stitching (I often thread through
the bobbin case finger as well), you not only get sharper edges, it reduces
the amount of bobbin thread used.  That means fewer bobbin changes in midseam :)

Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 08:03:17 -1000 (HST)
Subject: Starch

If you're in a pinch and don't want to make that trip to the store for 
starch, make your own.

Mix cornstarch in a bit of water until dissolved.  Now boil a pot of
water.  Turn burner off.  Doesn't take long for starch mix to settle so
make sure it's mixed well.  Pour mixture SLOWLY into hot water, stirring 
as you pour.  Stirring action keeps it smooth and prevents starch clots. 
If you've added too much and starch water is too thick.  Just add water 
until you reach your desired consistency.  The thicker it is, the stiffer 
your fabric.  Wring fabric out.  Throw into the dryer.  When dry, you are 
about to step back into the 1940s.

Homemakers at that time used a sprinkler.  We use a sprayer.  The entire 
fabric must be damp before ironing.  Dry spots will not iron smooth. I 
iron on the wrong side of the fabric because of white residue from the 
starch.  This washes out easily.
Date: Fri,  6 Oct 95 00:14:00 UTC
Subject: FWD: Shpooing for a new machin

Thanks, Sylvain, for sharing your considerable knowledge of machines with
us. It's certainly worth a lot more than .05 to me. :)
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 17:29:48 -0700
Subject: Re: "little iron" &pad

McCalls has a pattern for a portable Ironing pad using quilted material 
and a teflon fabric.  Nancy's notions offered this pattern 2-3 years 
ago I think.  If anyone is interested I'll look up the directions.  
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 20:01:57 -0400
Subject: Price for an 830

I just saw a used 830 at my local dealer and am wondering if I should get it.
 I would like to know what a good price is.  It was in excellent shape, with
the original case and parts, as well as a few extra feet (looked like 3 extra
rolled hem feet) and a walking foot.  He had $399 on it.  What do you think?
 I don't really need this machine, thinking of buying it for, well, I can't
really come up with a good reason.  I might as well admit it. Maybe I'll save
it for my niece.  I don't know why old Berninas beckon to me.  They just look
like they deserve a good home!

Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 20:21:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Satin Stitch - LOL

>Satin stitch can be a lot of fun once you get the hang of it.  I am currently
>using it in conjunction with Steam-a-Seam to make appliqued holiday
>wallhangings.  Some day I will drop the feed dogs and try lettering with it.  

Mary - Thanks for all the great info on satin stitching!  But I have a
non-SS question:  What is "Steam-a-Seam?"  Is it a technique or a product?

Date: Sat,  7 Oct 95 01:16:00 UTC
Subject: Bernina Digest 10/5/95

On homemade ironing boards:
     I followed the instructions in Kathleen Spike's book about being a
professional seamstress...she credited the original instructions from the
Palmer and Pletsch book Pants for Any Body.  I took a piece of 24"x48"
particle board, then used 2 twin sized army blankets.  I cut the army
blankets into pieces just larger than the board and wrapped the sides with
the blanket then stretched and hot glued each layer on the sides (this gives
a padded edge all the way around).  I then covered with canvas and glued the
edges underneath.
    I've tried batting...but the 1/2" layer of wool is SO MUCH BETTER
because it holds the heat/steam.  I got the blankets for $15 ea at the army
supply store...yes, they're army green, but you don't see that if you use
good canvas as a cover!
On the EuroPro:
    I've seen the demo...I think it really depends on you using their
ironing board because it has a suction system which draws the steam through
the fabric.  I really felt that it was for people who need serious steam,
not for the casual sewer or quilter.  Seems like the audience would be
people who do tailoring with wool (ie pants, suits...not your 3 hr
sundress!).  I think the ironing board is too small for general ironing (I
have to iron yardage which becomes wrinkled from prewashing etc)...maybe I'm
just spoiled by my new 24"x48" pressing board!
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 22:14:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Bernina Digest 10/5/95

Also you might want to start using Microtex needles.They are much sharper and
finer point and don't have to "fish" through the fibers!
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 23:16:37 -0400
Subject: ironing pads and 1630 feet

First, I bought an ironing pad for $8 at the Super Kmart the other day. I
haven't tried it yet, but it is made by Seymour, and advertized as a travel
pad. It isn't very big. I bought it to throw on top of my work table, and
hopefully be able to put away the ironing board which is causing me traffic
problems in my studio. I now have two very large tables in their, the second
one brought in presumably to cover and use as an ironing surface. 

Secondly, I would like to clear up some confusion on the prisms in the new
Bernina feet. The prisms are there to alert the 1630 that it has a special
foot that can accomodate the full 9mm needle swing. The rest of the Bernina
line makes a smaller width stitch. The 1630's feed dogs are also farther
apart, due to the wider needle swing. Generally, feet made with the prisms,
specifically for the 1630, also have wider bases, to match the feed dogs. You
want your foot to press down on the fabric right over the feed dogs for
optimal fabric movement. 

YOu can buy the feet with prisms, in fact the #12 foot is a great foot, a
combination of the old #12 and the old #21, and use it on any machine that
takes current feet. They just ignore the prism. 

I have the walking foot for the 1630. It has a wide base, two quilting
guides, and was more expensive than the ones made for the other machines. If
you compare the 1630 walking foot base, with the base of a regular foot, you
should be able to see that the walking foot is wider. I am not an expert, but
if I had a machine lower on the line than the 1630, and didn't have a walking
foot, I would be looking to buy a used walking foot. Unless, you are looking
ahead. Perhaps Bernina is planning to eventually have all their machines make
a wider stitch and one day you will want one.... The 1630 foot, also has a
groove on the toe just 1/4 inch to the right and left of the center needle
position. This is very helpful when putting a binding on, or working on a
quilt with a lot of cross seams.

I talked to the repairman/owner at my dealership, Libertyville Sewing Center,
in Libertyville, Illinois, whom I trust greatly, and he said that using the
embroidery stitches that make the fabric move backwards is not such a hot
idea with the walking foot. 

I would also like to add, that when the parts flew out of my Pfaff, Rick
repaired my machine, including doing some of it under warrenty, without
asking why I hadn't bought it from him. I bought my serger and my 1630 from
him because he does  a good job on repairs on my machine, and because the
store has great classes and also great fabric. If he had acted snotty about
fixing my Pfaff, he would never have seen me again. He knew that I was
shopping around when I bought my machine, and at least did not complain to
me. I did it to hear other people's opinions on different machines, and to
get new ideas about what I wanted. When I heard over and over the same stuff
about sergers I knew that I needed at least the 334ds, and felt very
comfortable buying it. 

I think some of the dealers who have been complaining about customers who
have the nerve to go elsewhere with their purchases, and then have the nerve
to ask for repairs from their shop should consider that these people will
eventually be in the market for more stuff. And they should ask themselves,
or their customer even, what they could have done to have gotten the sale.
 We have a free market society in the US, and most of us buy machines for
pleasure. I cannot imagine ever making up the cost of my 1630 by sewing
It was a luxury to buy that.  I do not feel I owe my blind allegance to
anyone. Someone who wants a few grand from me has to earn it. Maybe this
sensibility comes from my construction engineering background, where you sink
or swim on your bids. Getting angry with your customers, and feeling entitled
to their money is never the right way to deal with anyone. Why would I spend
a lot of money at a store that made me feel bad? I can go grocery shopping to
do that!

Date: Sat, 7 Oct 1995 11:21:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Slamming

I definitely agree with the below.  I am fortunate, here in Tallahassee, 
to have a very nice Bernina/Pfaff dealer.  She and her husband sell both 
machines.  I am currently drooling over both and can't decide.  I did 
purchase the new Pfaff computerized serger.  I decided on it because it 
told me what to do on the machine and I do pretty well following written 
directions.  I have never used a serger before.  The day I took it home, 
I pulled all the threads out.  I was going crazy trying to rethread it.  
I called Ginny, and she said just bring it by and she would rethread 
it!!!  WoW!  Of, course I had to buy a book, lace, etc, as long as I was 

Peggy K
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 95 11:52:46 EDT
Subject: Re: bonfit

I saw the Bonfit system demostrated on Sue Hauseman's sewing program.
I was very interested in trying it until I saw how expensive it was.  Before I
would invest in the Bonfit Pattern I would try Nancy Zieman's pivot and slide
technique of fitting patterns.  You buy the pattern to fit the shoulders and 
adjust the rest of the pattern accordinly.  When it was demostrated in her
three part series, it looked very easy to do.

Steve D
Date: Sat,  7 Oct 95 11:56:12 PDT
Subject: Should I trade in my 1630...?

Should I trade in my 1630 for the combo of a Deco and 1530?

I have owned Bernina's for 20 years now.  I owned a 1530, 
then sold it and bought the 1630.  I've had it for two
years, minus the four months for upgrades, gear replacements,
etc.  I read Ronnie's move to a Deco combined with a trade
down to a 1530, and I am seriously considering it also.

Since my bad experience with designing "Thank You's" for
my daughter's Girl Scout Gold Award ceremony, I can hardly
speak to it.  The one reason I've always loved Bernina's
is that they were there for me when everything else fell
apart in my life.  I'm very disappointed with the software
and designer part.  The "S" on the uppercase script, not
the monogram, looks like an "L", and my last name starts
with "S" (Sanders).  It skips when I'm doing something
important, and doesn't when I am doing something for fun!
Other times, it sews beautifully, but I rarely use the
16 directional function except for horoscopes and flowers.

Could I live without these things?  I am dissappointed 
with the keys, and have not gotten them.  Are Deco's
tempermental?  Can I write a poem with a Deco, or does
it have to be confined to the hoop shape?  Has anyone
traded down to a 1530 and regretted not having some of
the functions?

I am experienced, and really love my 1630, but I am bugged
at the lack of quality in the embroidery stuff.  The few
times I have really needed it, it has let me down a lot.
BTW, my daughter's Gold Award ceremony went beautifully,
and people she had known since Brownies showed up and read
poems and talked about her.  Hardly a dry eye at the Court
of Honor!  But, I still haven't forgiven my Bernina!

Date: Sat, 7 Oct 1995 16:09:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Bernina Digest 10/6/95

Barbara- I paid $500 for my 830 last year.  You are getting a better deal for
sure.  I didn't need mine either but I'm glad I have it as a back up to my
other Bernie.  I do a lot of machine quilting on my 830.

We just had our first Bernina Club at The Quilt shop, here in Danbury.  It
was wonderful.  We learned all about making pintucks.  I"ve waited so long
for Bernina Club, it was worth the wait.

Date: Sat, 7 Oct 1995 15:05:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Price for an 830

Hi  I just paid $350 for one, and am using it for heavy sewing. I'd go for it.
                Hugs,  Andrea
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 1995 21:09:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Rotary Mat

Unfortunately - the best thing for a warped mat is to give it a decent 
burial.  I have tried everything to fix one I left in my car, and ended 
up cuttinga the flat pieces off (one of which sits by my sewing machine 
for trimming pieces) and throwing the rest away!

Peggy K
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 1995 21:55:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Decos &Dealers

I read this group most faithfully, though my computer has been out of 
whack and I just read 342 messages. Occasionally I will put in my 2 cents 
on a topic but usually someone beats me to it.  I was so excited to see 
the Berninas on Picket Fences and now (belatedly) read that everyone 
already know about it.
 Re: Decos.  The scanner does take alot of practice. I was very 
discouraged with the results and considered taking mine back. then I went 
to the Singer store to see what they had done, since the Esante has been 
around a bit longer.  They had done the most incredible Tigger with a 
nice outline.  Practice, practice, is what Finally gives the good results.
Also, I think the reason the blank cards are so costly and dont hold all 
that much data (50,000 stitches worth) is because you can copy designs 
from a "real" card to a blank card using the scanner. It does work only 
it will only save the design in the size specified. I have plenty of 
people I can swap designs with if I need them. You hate to spend big 
bucks for a card just for one or two designs.

Re: Dealers- No matter the profession, there are good ones and bad ones. 
Just because you pick or somehow end up in a particular career doesnt 
mean you are really good at it. Those of us who are so blessed to have good 
dealers near to us should consider ourselves lucky.  I love my dealer, 
first professionally and second as a good friend. I would like to put in 
a good word for Doris Fisher @ A Different Touch, in Virginia Beach. She 
will not try to sell you something you dont need, will do most anything 
to make you happy and is a kind, loving person to boot.

I guess that's enough of me for awhile. I am just glad to "know" all of 
you.  Happy Sewing.

Date: Sat, 7 Oct 1995 22:47:40 -0400
Subject: Bernina 830

Barbara wants to know if she "should" give a good home (hers) to a used 830
she saw at her dealer's.

Well, recently an old Bernina 830 beckoned me, too -- and I brought it home
for my 10 year old daughter to take to her sewing lessons. I like to use it,
too! (Took it to a free-motion embroidery class where it kept up nicely with
the top of the line Pfaffs that were there)

I paid $350 for it. Came with the case, 12 feet, (not a walking foot though)
and hasn't a scratch. The dealer replaced something in the foot control and
thoroughly cleaned and oiled it before I brought it home. Gave me a one year
warranty, too; which came in handy a few weeks later when the needle bar got
loose and swung so far right that I broke a needle on the presser foot. It's
fixed now, (free) and runs great.

I had been looking for an Elna Super for my daughter (like grandma's) but I
like the knee-lift of our Bernina. I say, take that 830 home!


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