Bernina Fan Club Archives
2002
Friday, May 31
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Date: 31 May 2002 05:05:54 -0400
From: Lobo
Subject: adjusting tension
Most sewing machine instruction books give instructions for adjusting the
tension.
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Date: 31 May 2002 08:02:13 -0400
From: "wilowind"
Subject: Re: Bernina's fabric feed
I don't think so, balance and foot pressure are different things. There's a
little wheel on the left side of the machine, near where the needle
threader is, that you turn to adjust the pressure. Check the manual, it'll
show you where it is exactly.
Willowwind
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Date: 31 May 2002 11:02:13 -0400
From: StashAddict
Subject: adjusting darts (was finishing kick)
Hmmm, my novice garment sewer writing is surely not clear! The dart in this
case is coming all the way up from the hemline, not in from the side. Sort
of an abbreviated princess seam maybe?
The depth of the dart seems good (ie if I pull up the shoulder about 1/2"-1"
it sits beautifully. I am concerned that if I extend this type of dart up
further it will make the bustline shallower. This is *not* what my largish
chest needs LOL!
If I just pick the whole dart up and move it up the amount needed it seems
to me that the hemline will shrink in some, as the width of the dart at the
bottom will now be larger. Not something my hips need either (can you say
"hourglass"?).
Unfortunately, the armhole size seems good, especially as I like leaving the
option of wearing a t-shirt underneath. I definitely can't afford to lose
any depth there.
The back is a whole 'nother mess. The darts are sort of bow shaped like
this () rather than arrowhead like this /\ (that is what the front is like).
Although after wearing the shirt yesterday as a jacket it was comfortable.
Someday I'd like to figure out how to make one that will fit as a shirt too.
'Course by then the fashion will no longer call for fitted but blousy LOL.
Kelly.
Hey!!! As I reread this before sending it occurs to me that I *might* be
able to pick up the whole dart and move it up. If I shorten the whole shirt
below the armhole by 1" (not a problem for my 5'0" height) but leave the
dart completely intact, moving the top of it up 1" on the pattern this just
might work. I would slash the pattern piece in to the dart seam line on
each side and fold out 1". Then slash up the dart seam line so that the
point would end up 1" above where it was originally. This would shorten the
whole shirt 1", but on the dart the decrease would be between the shoulder
seam and the top of the dart. The armhole wouldn't be affected at all.
Am I completely out to lunch there? It seems a little too easy...
Kelly.
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Date: 31 May 2002 11:21:21 -0400
From: Phaedra H
Subject: last sewing class
Whew! We finished but the students all went home with un-hemmed pants.
Here's what I learned about teaching a class.
1. Set some milestones and bring all students to them at the same time.
That way you're only explaining things once. I got sidetracked by trying to
work with each student at their own pace and that ate up my time.
2. Don't give them many choices. I had students who wanted to cut their
pants off for capris, ones who wanted drawstrings, etc. Of course that
stuff is easy for me so I was thinking, "fine, why not?" but took up time
as I explained techniques to one or two students, stuff that didn't really
apply to the rest of the class.
3. Don't send them home with homework unless you've clearly demonstrated it
in class!
4. Probably don't monkey with pockets.
5. Make sure they are reading along with the instructions.I don't use
instructions very often so I wasn't even looking at them at first. Of
course that meant the students weren't really looking at them and learning
how to read instructions either. I caught that later.
6. Give them some insider tips and techniques, "Now, the pattern directions
don't tell you this, but...". That makes them feel like the class is worth
it and that you know what you're talking about.
Now I'm putting together a syllabus for a home dec class. One throw pillow
with welting and buttons and one box cushion with baseball seams and zipper
and tufting in 10 hours. I think we can do it but the only option I'm
giving them is the fabric!
Phaedra H
"Remember: No matter where you go, there you are." --Buckaroo Banzai
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Date: 31 May 2002 11:48:09 -0400
From: "Diane Pa
Subject: Re: Flannel quilt, thanks for tips
Kelly wrote:
Flannel does shrink, so pre-washing is recommended. On flannel FQ's I would
suggest hand washing to minimize fraying. Machine dry at least part way
too, perhaps in a lingerie bag so as not to make too much of a thready mess.
Thanks Kelly!
Great suggestion, just what I needed!
Diane in PA
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Date: 31 May 2002 14:25:53 -0400
From: KMGreene
Subject: Re: adjusting darts (was finishing kick)
Kelly,
I didn't realize that the darts came up from the bottom on the front.
Your idea at the end of you note should work. But then remember that you will
have to shorten the back too or else the top will seem to pull up in the
front and the side seams won't match any more.
The darts in the back that are sort of bow shape () probably define your
waist where the dart is the widest since that is the part which will be
pulled in the most when you stitch the dart. When shortening the back keep in
mind that you don't want to move the part which defines the waist unless that
seems to be in the wrong place for you like the front dart was. Maybe do the
same kind of slash and fold like you proposed for the front since shortening
from the bottom on the back may make it narrower at the hem and you said you
don't want that.
Karen G
In a message dated 5/31/02 11:07:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bernina@pcnet1.pcnet.com writes:
> Hey!!! As I reread this before sending it occurs to me that I *might* be
> able to pick up the whole dart and move it up. If I shorten the whole
shirt
> below the armhole by 1" (not a problem for my 5'0" height) but leave the
> dart completely intact, moving the top of it up 1" on the pattern this just
> might work. I would slash the pattern piece in to the dart seam line on
> each side and fold out 1". Then slash up the dart seam line so that the
> point would end up 1" above where it was originally. This would shorten
the
> whole shirt 1", but on the dart the decrease would be between the shoulder
> seam and the top of the dart. The armhole wouldn't be affected at all.
>
> Am I completely out to lunch there? It seems a little too easy...
>
> Kelly.
>
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Date: 31 May 2002 16:19:15 -0400
From: KAREN ST
Subject: Pattern fitting
To STashAddict and all others with fitting issues
There are several software products available which
will print patterns to your measurements. Then you
don't have to fool around with altering patterns.
I have been using Dress Shop for several years. As
long as you get good measurements according to the
directions that come with the software (different
products use different measuring points) they work
great.
I've used my Dress Shop software to make clothes for
various family members including children. In the
long run, you also save money, because many different
patterns and styles are included so you don't have to
buy a new pattern to get a different style.
Dress Shop has several different packages available
including a sampler for $29 pluss shipping. You can
also download a demo (no printing, but you can play
with the program) for free.
Website is http://www.livingsoft.com
NAYY, just a happy customer
Karen in Bensalem PA
soon to be Lititz PA
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Date: 31 May 2002 20:36:07 -0400
From: JANISBLOND
Subject: Re: last sewing class
Thank you for those tips. I have to teach a block for a sampler we are making
at our church quilt group. I have been having a hard time focusing on "How
To" get each step told. Those were great ideas I can use.
Jan in So. Cal
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Date: 31 May 2002 20:39:22 -0400
From: MEQUILTS
Subject: Quilting with flannel
Hi,
I am new to this group, but have already received a wealth of information. I
bought my first Bernina last August.
First, I have recently started quilting in flannel and love it. I do not wash
my flannel before sewing because I want to achieve that comfortable, worn
look that occurs when flannel shrinks a little. I made a small scrap quilt
for my grandson in 6" square and machine quilted it. I have a Bernina 180 and
found that a walking foot was essential for machine quilting. I also bind my
quilts in flannel with a French double-fold binding. Since the quilt is quite
a bit thicker than just cotton, it can be helpful to cut the binding a 0.5"
wider before folding. I am just finishing a flannel rag quilt. I'm still
clipping the seams, so I haven't gotten to the washing stage, yet.
Second, I am very lucky to have a Bernina dealer that is serious about their
sewing machine guide classes. My classes for the 180 met once a week (2
hours/session) for 6 months and cost only $20.....the $12 workbook was
included in that. Anyway, we were thoroughly taught/encouraged to adjust
foot pressure, the tension, the balance, etc. I don't know how one would work
with different fabric weights and thread types without making appropriate
adjustments to the machine.
Thanks for "listening"..........
Piecefully,
Midge in Midlothian
(__)
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(oo)......moo!
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