Bernina Fan Club Archives

November 1997

Sunday, November 2 - Saturday, November 8

Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 18:38:04 EST
Subject: Walking foot

In a message dated 97-11-01 13:27:26 EST, you write:


I recently got a walking foot for my 1630.  I've only used it a couple of
times so far, but had no problems with it.
Gail R. 
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 15:54:37 -0800
Subject: Lexington, KY  STORES

Dear BFC

I will be in Lexington, KY for a week:  Nov. 8-15.  To those who know
this area (including a 100 mile radius):

Is there anything interesting to see and do?    I am interested in
general sewing, heirloom sewing, and machine embroidery.  Are the any
special fabric shops or Bernina stores?


Respectfully requested,

Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 11:32:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Houston

I was in Houston for the Quilt Show and stopped by the Bernina booth and
they were so busy, I was thought I might get a glance and demo of the new
180 but that did not happen.  Those of you that have bought this new machine
will you let me know what you think of it.

where I am thinking of upgrading? to the 180 from the 1630 any thoughts
would be welcome.
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 09:34:38 EST
Subject: 108 Card

    Don't understand all the recent comments on the 108 card not working on
the Deco 500 - I have both and used it and it works fine.  Only noticed one
pattern - the deer  - that the outline was off and it probably was because of
my own error in forgetting to use a stabilizer underneath.  Still getting use
to all there is to learn.
Hope this helps.

Subject: Stores in San Francisco


Cheryl wrote:
>We will be relocating to the San Francisco area probably by years end.  
>I have a Bernina 1130 and would like to know which dealers to go to for 
>excellent maintenance of my machine.  Also, where are the fabulous 
>fabric shops?  Not sure yet just what part of S.F. we will be in but I 
>have been known to  travel for wonderful fabric and top notch machine 
>care.  Thanks.

Another Cheryl in the Bay Area!  Well, whenever you get here, WELCOME!

Bernina Maintenance:
Mr. B's in San Francisco
(I would try to stay away from The Quilting Bee in Mt. View)

Quilting Shops (not my forte):
The Quilting Bee in Mt. View
All Tied Up in San Jose
Whiffle Tree Quilts in Cupertino

Garment Fabric Stores (definately my forte!):
Satin Moon in San Francisco
Stone Mountain and Daughter in Berkeley
The Poppy in Oakland
Fine Line Fabrics in Menlo Park
The Sewing Place in Saratoga/San Jose
(I intentionally left Britex off -- they are so big as to be 
overwhelming, very expensive and the staff is very snooty)

Good luck with your move.


Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 09:09:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Many Machines

In a message dated 97-10-31 23:50:02 EST, you write:

>> I have been "lurking" (as everyone calls it) for a little while now and
 have thoroughly enjoyed the great tips and conversations that go on in this
 list.  I am an avid quilter and own a 1530 (which I love!) as well as a
 Featherweight 221 and a Featherweight 222 (Free Arm).  Don't ask me why I
 have THREE machines because my husband is always asking that question.  

IT'S ok--I have three too--801 sport-1630-brother 8200 sewing embroidery
- -2000DC serger--DH doesn't ask anymore--tell him if one goes to shop you
still can sew--Does he have more than one Hammer?oooooooooooooooh please
don't mention snow  Today 1Nov it is in the 50's  
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 09:21:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Good Deal on 1031QE

I only paid $999 NEW for a 1031 QE.  With all the feet and knee lift.  That
was the close out price.  If this is a dealer I would tell them that you know
they are asking more used than new.  They should be called on their on their
attemp to cheat the customer.

Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 16:08:34 EST
Subject: Re: Protecting Ceramic Buttons

To me the easiest way to deal with non-washable buttons is to sew regular
buttons on the back of the decorative button and make button holes on both
fronts of the garment, button the decorative button with plain button on the
inside and then the decorative button through the other side.  Buttons are
fully removable for washing.
Subject: Re: Where to get seasonal buttons?
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 23:00:15 -0800

Fabricland in Mt.Vernon,Wa.carries a fabulous selection of buttons made of
everything wood,glass,plastic fabric etc.,and they always have a great
seasonal selection!
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 97 22:01:50 +0000
Subject: Greater Cleaning/Tune-up Than I Expected -- $1,100

I posted a few messages several weeks ago about my visit to my local Bernina 
dealer to look at the last of the old model machines.  They only had 1260's 
left and I passed, thinking it just wasn't enough extra features to justify 
1,500 or 1,600 dollars and parting with my lovely 1020 (bought used for 
I've kept myself merrily occupied since then with making a form of myself 
with packing tape and expanding foam, and draping the pattern for a new 
dress shirt on it.  The muslin is still a work progress as the form seems to 
be a slightly inflated version of myself caused I surmise by the pressure 
exerted by the expanding foam, but the muslin's getting there.
And here's where I get to the point of it all.  While I worked on the 
muslin, I thought I'd send my 1020 in for a cleaning and tune-up.
I went in today to pick it up, and walked out with a classroom/demo 1530, no 
1020, and $1,100 less in my pocket.  The unit has full warranty and includes 
classes, so I think I did okay by myself, but am still in a little shock.  
Now I'm really going to have to produce something to justify the expense:   
These custom made shirts just keep getting more expensive!
Offered for the amusement of others,

Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 20:34:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Protecting Ceramic Buttons

I love the fun buttons also, and no longer SEW them onto the garment, but use
the special shaped safety pins that are made to attach fancy buttons.
Then....when time to wash the garment, I remove the buttons and pins, and
reattach after the ironing.  Works for me!
Subject: Re: Patterns for under birth weight babies AND breastfeeding clothes 
AND mail order fabrics ! ;)
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 09:49:12 +1100

There is a great online company called Elizabeth Lee Designs which
specialises in patterns for breastfeeding mothers.  I noticed in her
catalog today that she also has three patterns called "Preemie-Yums"
especially designed for  babies 4-6lb, with simple construction techniques
(important, I guess, if you're sewing something so small). They're $6.95
each or $18 for 3, plus she has a bonus pattern program. I've bought
nursing patterns from Elizabeth and been extremely happy with them. Her
website is   

Also, I've recently discovered the Fabric Club at
Caryn's prices will make you ill, they're so cheap !!! (They certainly give
me a Charlie Brown stomach, I just *know* I'm going to have to spend a
fortune !!)

Hope this helps,

Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 19:44:26 EST
Subject: Re: Tilt Tables

I have a tilt table and love it.  Just remember when you are creating your own
you have no front protection from the machine vibrating forward.  The tilt
table has a lip to prevent the maching from sliding off the front.  Just a
word of warning!  Better safe sometimes that cheap!  or sorry, could end up
being much more expensive if machine should fall.
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 07:02:18 -0800
Subject: 1230 won't shut off

A friend of mine has a problem with her 1230.  Sometimes when
she turns the power button off, the machine does not shut down --
she must pull the electrical plug out to turn the machine off.

Her service-person is unable to locate the source of the problem.

Anyone had this problem and know why?

Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 09:47:58 -0500
Subject: Walking Foot Modifications

We are new to BFC and have been seeing postings about walking foot
modifications. Would like to know what this is all about. What does it
accomplish, what are the modifications, any sources or references, etc.
Betsy and Frank 
ate: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 09:17:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Tilt'able

I just bought one and I love it.  It has a space cut for the knee lift so
that's not a problem.  I bought one for my serger, too.  But I don't see why
you couldn't use a piece of wood or something else to make your machine tilt.
 Just be careful because the Berninas are somewhat top heavy and if you tilt
it too much it can easily fall.

Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 06:09:10 -0500
Subject: Tyvek

Just got back from holiday and catching up with my Bernina digests, I
notice you've been chatting about Tyvek.

Here in England, we machine embroiderers (that's free motion
machine embroidery rather than the "Deco" kind) have been getting a little
excited by Tyvek, and the fact that when you iron the stuff it makes the
most incredible textures!!  Unfortunately it's quite hard to come by here
and you US residents would laugh if you saw the prices charged for tiny
packs of the stuff! (Fortunately I have an American friend who "recycles"
her office envelopes for me)

Here's how we do it:
Colour the tyvek with paints or crayons - metallic Shiva oilbars
work especially well, and I love the gold!  Put the tyvek in a sandwich
of non-stick paper and press briefly with a hot iron - the tyvek will
bubble away from the heat (so I usually put the coloured side down).  You
have to experiment with the time you press/heat of the iron and so on, but
the most interesting textures are created.  Once you've done, you can
stitch through the stuff and attach it to pieces of stitchery - maybe
include it in an experimental panel or make a greeting card.....

Have fun with your tyvek - I certainly have!

Subject: Disney cards for Deco 500
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 21:31:13 -0500

I have the Disney & Sesame Street cards from Japan, and they do work on my
Deco 500.  It's a gamble to know whether it will work on your machine, at
some point Brother put a block in the machines so the cards won't work on
machines manufactured after a certain time.
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 14:55:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Christmas Decorations

A quick Christmas decoration to make looks like a unit of Cathedral Window
piecework.  You start by drawing a square on a piece of cardboard; I usually
make my square 2 1/2" - 3".  Now lightly draw 1 diagonals on the square to
find the center point.  Using this center point and a compass, draw a circle
around the square that completely encloses the square (actually about 1/8"
outside the square.  Cut this circle out of the cardboard.  Use this
cardboard circle to cut out 2 circles of contrasting Christmas fabric.  Put
these 2 circles right sides together and completely sew (1/4" seam allowance)
all around the circles.  Using the square cut out of the cardboard, center
the square on the circle and press one flap of double fabric over the square.
 Remove the cardboard square and carefully cutting through only ONE layer of
the fabric make a slit along this pressed line.  Clip around the sewn curve
and turn the fabric right sides out through this cut slit.  Press the circle
carefully, then again center the square on the cut side and press all 4 flaps
of fabric over the edges of the square.  You now have a square with 4 curving
segments folded over (covering up the cut slit).  Use you decorative stitches
to stitch down the 4 curving flaps.  You now have an ornament that looks like
a piece of Cathedral Window patchwork.  Attach a ribbon hanger on one corner
and you're done!  Hope this is quick enough for you to get done in time.
 They make nice gift tags also.
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 13:13:33 -0600
Subject:  denim quilt

For a denim quilt: one of the public television quilt shows demonstrated a
denim quilt made on a serger, using discarded jeans. It was serged with
red, I think, or variable colored thread, and the overlocked seams were
left on the right side. The squares were constructed of six quadrilateral
pieces with unequal sides, such that there were no corners to match -- kind
of like a crazy quilt. I wish E-mail did graphics! If you can't picture it,
send an E-mail request and I'll send you a sketch by snail mail. It would
be easy to make and it would appeal to lots of people for a casual look. 

Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 10:34:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Burda Magazine

Dawn, in answer to your question about the format of the Burda
magazines--they are great in terms of the style and number of patterns
included, but light on text descriptions and instructions.  The instructions
tell you the order in which to assemble the pieces but are nothing like the
detailed instructions of commercial sewing patterns.  You have to trace the
patterns off of the fold-out included in the magazine, which can be kind of
tricky, since all the patterns are printed on top of each other, in different
colors.  They do not include seam allowances. If you are an experienced sewer
the magazines are a good deal.  I have only made one thing out of a Burda
magazine so far--a romper for my son, but it did turn out cute and was not
too hard to figure out.  I have not attempted anything for myself yet.  I
would note that the patterns are multi-sized and the magazine gives very
detailed measurements for the various sizes, so this might be very handy for
someone with fitting problems.  

Good luck,

Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 14:48:30 -0600
Subject: Pattern systems - which do you use?

I have a Bernina 1260qpe which I use for quilting.  I would like to
start making more clothing.  I have a non-standard (as far as patterns
go) shape where my legs are a smaller size than my hips/waist.  Guess I
am thick about the middle.  So, what do you recommend for
drafting/changing patterns?  Do you use a system that you can adapt as
your size changes?  (I am great at gaining/losing 20-30 lbs in a
season.)  Thanks,
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 12:53:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Good Deal on 1031QE

Well, it depends on your market. I lucked into a 1031QE (new) for $999
since my Bernina dealer was closing out their stock last summer. I
really adore this machine (yes, I used to think folks who loved their
sewing machines weren't playing with a full deck). It has a lot of
versatility, it can take the use (I bought it for machine quilting) and
it has that great and now necessary-to-a-productive-stitching-life knee
lift tool. Since I went to it from a Featherweight (the first non-demon
possessed machine I'd experienced), I also appreciated that the learning
curve was short and the dealer's classes showed me how to more than I
may ever ask of the machine.
Hope this .02 helps and that you enjoy the 1031QE, too.
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 12:45:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Protecting Ceramic Buttons

I know it's a pain, but one clunk against the metal drum of your washer
or dryer and you can have ceramic chips. Even if the button doesn't
break up, the heat and impact will significantly shorten the life of
your expensive buttons as the damage can also be cumulative. Since
Murphy's law applies to all facets of life, you'd doubtlessly lose one
or more just as Mill Hill discontinued that design.
Good luck.
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 17:35:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Protecting Ceramic Buttons

I could sew some small caps -
> like shower caps - out of bubble wrap - put that over each button -
> and put the vest into a nylon bag and throw it in with the ordinary
> wash.  Has anyone got some experience with washing ceramic buttons?
> I will hand wash if I HAVE to - but hate to HAVE to!
> ____									
	Aloha Sandi!  Perhaps you could protect these expensive beauties 
by not putting them through the wash @ all!  Here's my idea:  make your 
garmet with regular buttons.  Make a mock strip of fabric with the 
ceramic buttons and velcro this mock strip onto the garmet to actually 
cover over the  button holes.  You'll have to stagger the buttons to 
reduce bulk, (ie. when the garmet is fastend, the ordinary btns and the 
ceramic btns cannot overlap each other).  I have not used this method, 
but have found it in one of my sewing magz.  You'd have to place thin 
strips of velcro between each btn hole so the mock strip that holds your 
ceramic btns will be secured.  

If you try this, let me know how it looks!!!!!

Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 19:41:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Projects

It is a great magazine.  There are full size patterns for practically
everything feeatured in the magazine.  The only drawback is that many of the
patterns overlap and you must be very careful when tracing them off.  Also,
seam allowances are not included. However, when you consider the price of the
average pattern opposed to about 20 different patterns a month for $12.00,
the slight inconveniences become even slighter.  I have been a subscriber to
Burda for about 2 years now and have really enjoyed it and have made some
great things out of it.  Go for it.

Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 18:43:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Sewing and younger generations...

I want to second the woman who urged us to volunteer to do demonstrations at
our local schools/home ec classes, etc.  I have an acquaintance who is a Home
Ec teacher and she laments also the decline in interest in sewing classes.  I
volunteered to come into her classes (I did several classes) and demo some
quilting techniques.  It was a little strange for me because I couldn't
"read" how they were taking it (I don't have any children myself) but it must
have made an impact because they voted to do a quiltmaking segment and
several lap quilts were completed (including one with the school logo/mascot
on it that hangs in the school).  I have since moved so can no longer demo in
that school district but I intend to contact my new school district and see
if there is any interest.  Church groups also are a good source.  If we want
this beautiful and utilitarian art to continue we have to help it along.
 Whew!  That was at least 5 cents worth!
Subject: RE: using sewing machine for cover stitch?
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:10:27 +1100

In case no one else replies to this - I use my 830 and my 1230 to do a
cover stitch.  Use twin needle (I have used 4mm and 1.6mm) with wooly
nylon thread in the bobbin.  I have used this tecnique on lycra for gym
wear as well as T-shirts.  It makes quite a stretchy stitch.

Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 16:24:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Nylon Thread in 20 Years?

I have had 2 of my quilts machine quilted in overall patterns using the
invisible nylon thread.  One quilt I had done about 6 years ago, the second
one about 4 years ago.  The 6 year old quilt is used daily on my bed; the bed
is about 8 feet from a double window that gets the afternoon sun.  This quilt
has started to have breakage--if you bend down at just the right angle, you
can see little "hairs" of broken nylon thread sticking up.  Bear in mind I've
used this quilt daily and I machine wash and dry (low) it.  Still, I had
hoped it would wear better.

The other quilt (4 years old) has been used as in a spare bedroom, just
draped over a rack.  No noticeable wear yet.  

I no longer have my quilts done in the invisible thread.  Any other
experiences from others of you out there?
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 13:09:20 +0000
Subject: Who needs this?

I have read alot on this list from people who own Elna Sergers.  A friend
gave me a Elna 7000 SM.  Included with the bags and bags of STUFF was a
manual and zip-lock bag of goodies for the Elna serger.  The serger was
given away a couple of years ago and it would be too hard to track down the
new owners.  I would be glad to hear from any of you that may have a need
for the 
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 19:41:06 EST
Subject: Re:  Quick Napkin Creations

Krause Publications should have this book. Call (800)258-0929.
Robbie Fanning
The Creative Machine Newsletter
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 12:45:50 -0600
Subject: Re: A Lightweight Bernina...

Bernina wrote:
> I recently received a message from a woman who had a Bernina 801 for sale.
> She said that it was designed to be Bernina's answer to the Singer
> Featherweight.  I don't know how much it weighs, I have never seen one, but
> it might be a handy size to carry to class.

I have the 801 Sport and I love it very much.  It is light enough that I
carry it ot work and sew at work while waiting for ambulance calls.

I can not afford a tol Bernia and hope some day to get one baut am very
happy with my 801. 

If you have a chance to get one and you travel and would like a light
weight machine it is the one to get.

my 2 cents.

btw:  If you get the machine let me know how you like it.
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 11:53:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 930 - Best Ever

I agree with both of you about the 930.  I love mine and plan to pass it down
to the next 10 generations...(hopefully).

Subject: Re: 810
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 11:00:16 -0600

Judy I have a Bernina 811, last flat bed Bernina made.  It has 7 different
stitches that are used mostly, and a great buttonholer.  That is the
machine I use for buttonholes as it is better than my others.  I don't know
how much it weighs, but is lighter than most, but not as light as Singer
Featherweight.  I use to take it out of the cabinet, put it in a case and
tote it all over.  Good luck to you.
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 00:54:07 -0500
Subject: Bernina Dealers in Houston?

I will be moving to Houston in December. I would appreciate any
recommendations for a Bernina Dealer with a good service tech there.

Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 23:07:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 1630 Border Key

In a message dated 97-11-02 16:45:32 EST, you write:

>> What she would like is if some kind person out there could tell me what
 kind of borders are on this key and also is there a Bernina dealer in the
 US that would be prepared to sell one to her here in South Africa. >>
I have the borders key.  It is mostly designs that you already have on the
1630--like hearts or bows or leaves.  The border key allows you to sew these
designs in much larger sizes--some have 3 sizes and some have 2 sizes and a
few only come in one size.  This key would be excellent for machine quilters
and perhaps for those who like to embellish hem areas.  I bought mine through
the mail, so I am sure there are stores that will do that for you.  I don't
have the name of the one I used.
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 21:27:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: hemmer "dilemmer"; tilting machines

In a message dated 97-11-02 17:28:18 EST, you write:

>> I need all the help I can get on how to start the fabric through the
 hemmer foot. Would dearly love to hear from dealers or other sewists who can
 say the magic words that make this process easy and no-hair-tearing!

What I do to start is to finger press a narrow hem for about 1/2 an inch.  I
then sew this with the narrow hemming foot but not with the fabric going
through the scroll.  I then stop with the needle down and gently pull the
fabric into the scroll.  I then continue hemming by holding a couple of
inches of fabric verticaly in front of the foot.  The fabric continues to
feed into the scroll and you have a perfect hem.

Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 21:45:13 -0500
Subject: 530

I just bought a 530 that needs TLC.  It is not sewing!  I'm going to take
it to a trusted Bernina repair person.  Can you tell me anything about this
machine?  It was practically free so I don't feel bad getting it overhauled
although I'd rather just sew on it tonight.  I already have a 1530 and
wanted a mechanical.  I can't argue that I needed a backup machine because
I already have 14 machines.  Oh well....
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 21:27:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: hemmer "dilemmer"; tilting machines

In a message dated 97-11-02 17:28:18 EST, you write:

>>I need all the help I can get on how to start the fabric through the
 hemmer foot. Would dearly love to hear from dealers or other sewists who can
 say the magic words that make this process easy and no-hair-tearing!

What I do to start is to finger press a narrow hem for about 1/2 an inch.  I
then sew this with the narrow hemming foot but not with the fabric going
through the scroll.  I then stop with the needle down and gently pull the
fabric into the scroll.  I then continue hemming by holding a couple of
inches of fabric verticaly in front of the foot.  The fabric continues to
feed into the scroll and you have a perfect hem.

Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 15:04:11 -1000
Subject: Visions Quilt Exhibit and San Diego Quilt Shops

I wanted to get back to you people and let you know what I think I have
figured out about the San Diego Visions Quilt Exhibit.  I don't know why
it has been so difficult to get information about the exhibit.  I think
the reason it is not in Quilt magazines, or on the internet is because
it isn't happening this year!  I guess it is a once every 2 year kind of
show.  What I thought I saw in Quilter's Newsletter Mag. is a call for
entries for next year's show!  Anyway, thank you for the e-mail telling
me of the quilt shops in San Diego. Aloha,  Joan 
P.S.  Does anyone know if Bernina sponsors a quilt competition?
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 97 06:41:50 UT
Subject: RE: labels in clothing....

Ellen wrote:

>For the person who was talking about the Polarfleece jacket that was stolen
>because it has no name in it:

>I made a bunch of fleece clothing for a daughter going on a school ski trip,
>and I wrote her name with a laundry pen on strips of do-sew or sew-in
>interfacing, then sewed them into the seams. No lost clothes.

In my case, I couldn't put a label in a seam or at the neck because the coat 
was totally reversible, with a hood.  Any placement of the label would have 
been visible -- except inside the pocket, which someone privately emailed me 
about.  IF I ever make her another coat, I will be sure to label it somewhere,
even if it has to be in the pocket.

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 23:14:59 -0600
Subject: #69 foot

Do any of you have exprience with the #69 foot? I'm not sure what it's
called but it kinda makes a rolled hem. I sure need tips on how to use
the darn thing. I've read the directions and played with it a bit, but
still can't seem to use it right. Any ideas?

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 16:30:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Dress Forms

Has anyone had any experience w/dress forms i.e. Twin Fit or My Double.  I
would appreciate any info pro or con.  You can e-mail me privately or send
reply here. TIA
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 16:32:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Phone # for G Street Fabric

Their phone number in MD is:  301-231-8998, FAX 301-231-0155 or toll free

Subject: Ceramic Buttons/Protection
Date: Tue,  4 Nov 97 15:48:07 EDT

To Sandi McGinnes:  I don't think your bubble wrap idea for ceramic buttons 
last too long, but here is my idea....and I think it is a great one!  I've
it and guarantee it!

Take a piece of the wide (1.5 inch ?)  SEWABLE Velcro and cut a piece about
in. long.  On one side of the soft, fuzzy piece, cut a slot from the edge into
the center.  This piece slides under the button around the shank.  Then slap 
grippy piece over the top.  Voila!  The button is totally incased and that
Velcro will stay together through the washer and dryer.  Works great for other
fancy buttons as well.  When I make my appliqued sweatshirts with matching
ceramic buttons for gifts, the recipient gets a corresponding supply of Velcro
protectors!  I think I should patent this idea!!  
Subject: Re: Bernina Digest 10/31 & 11/1/97
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 09:49:21 -0600

Last night I went to a meeting of the Van Alstyne (TX) Quilter's Guild. The
guest speaker was Carolyn Miller, a quilter, teacher and collector. She has
over 100 quilts in her collection and brought some last night. One has
fabric dated to 1845.  Some of the colors were horrific, but she said you
can't buy a quilt to "go with" your house.  The workmanship was astounding.
One was machine appliqued, frm about 1875, with was claimed to be the first
sewing machine in the county. Really fun to see.

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 09:43:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Binder

Lisa writes:

 >I have the Bernina binder attachment, and I like it a lot, but I have never 
 >used it for binding a quilt.  I have typically used it to put bias binding 
 >around the armhole or neckline of clothing for my kids.  It does a great 
 >job for this.  Cut the binding exactly 1 1/8" wide, and spray starch it to 
 >give it enough body to go on easily.  It's really fast.  Also, remember to 
 >trim away the seam allowance, since the binding edge will be the new 
 >finished edge.  If you do end up getting it, let me know, as I have a few 
 >other "tricks" for using it.

I have recently bought this foot, could you talk about the other tricks for
using it?


Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 10:11:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Mail Order Fabric  Source

Forgot to recommend to you...................HANCOCK'S OF PADUCAH....they
have wonderful high quality fabric and good customer
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 09:28:45 -0500
Subject: Winding Bobbins For Serger

Hi Lisa,  I haven't been serging all that long but I also do the same 
as you -- winding the serger thread onto bobbins for the needles and 
also for the lower looper if I'm doing a rolled hem.  This method has 
worked out very well for me.  Cheap too!

Your "get a life" story irritated me to no end.  I get a lot of eye 
rolling from people whenever I mention a project that I'm working 
on.  These are the same people who spend the whole weekend renting 
and watching videos.  People who don't sew have no idea how creative 
it is and how much pleasure is derived from this art.  Sewing 
allows you to use your imagination to the fullest.  It also requires 
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 09:14:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Needs advice of use of monofilament thread

Lisa and Kay--

My instructions follow Lisa's, but i use old dryer sheets (like Bounce)
instead of tulle, and so far, they've worked just fine.  Of course, I'm not
too concerned about any of my work becoming "heirloom".

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 03:40:33 EST
Subject: Re: 1630 Border Key

   Regarding the Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook: The AGW is a binder-style
workbook that covers just about everything from applique to zippers. It shows
you how to use the various stitches and feet for the Berninas, and each entry
is like a lesson that gives you a brief description of the subject of the
entry, what presser foot (feet) to use, needles, thread type, fabric type, as
well as machine settings and directions for doing each lesson. It is wonderful
reference to have (ESPECIALLY when you have forgotten what the dealer showed
you to do). There is even an entry on making your own entredeaux, if you are
in to heirloom sewing.
  You can start at the beginning of the book, if you want, and go through each
thing, IF you have the time, OR simply flip through to find the exact
application that you are looking for. It is laid out in alphabetical order,
with A B C tabs, as well as the index, so things are easy to find. There are
also two supplements.
  I paid $90 American for mine, but that price included both supplements, and
it is DEFINITELY worth the cost! I've lost count of the times that I've used
mine, and have barely scratched the surface! I wouldn't be without mine! ( One
note though. It is an ADVANCED workworkbook, therefore NOT aimed at beginning-
level sewers. If you are already knowledgeable about sewing, and are familiar
with your Bernina, it can't be beat. A beginner might find him or herself
  Hope this helps you make a decision on whether the Advanced Guide Workbook
is for you.
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 02:31:39 -0700
Subject: Re: New Bernina Artista 180

>This machine does not feature on Bernina's home page.  Where does it
>come in the scheme of things?  Does it replace the 1630? Is it a
>development of the Virtuoso range?

As I understand it, it will replace the 1630.  Top of the line.  Will have a
separate embroidery unit available.  My dealer will have someone in demo-ing
it Wednesday, 5th.  Not in the Virtuoso range as far as I gather.

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 03:40:33 EST
Subject: Re: 1630 Border Key

   Regarding the Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook: The AGW is a binder-style
workbook that covers just about everything from applique to zippers. It shows
you how to use the various stitches and feet for the Berninas, and each entry
is like a lesson that gives you a brief description of the subject of the
entry, what presser foot (feet) to use, needles, thread type, fabric type, as
well as machine settings and directions for doing each lesson. It is wonderful
reference to have (ESPECIALLY when you have forgotten what the dealer showed
you to do). There is even an entry on making your own entredeaux, if you are
in to heirloom sewing.
  You can start at the beginning of the book, if you want, and go through each
thing, IF you have the time, OR simply flip through to find the exact
application that you are looking for. It is laid out in alphabetical order,
with A B C tabs, as well as the index, so things are easy to find. There are
also two supplements.
  I paid $90 American for mine, but that price included both supplements, and
it is DEFINITELY worth the cost! I've lost count of the times that I've used
mine, and have barely scratched the surface! I wouldn't be without mine! ( One
note though. It is an ADVANCED workworkbook, therefore NOT aimed at beginning-
level sewers. If you are already knowledgeable about sewing, and are familiar
with your Bernina, it can't be beat. A beginner might find him or herself
  Hope this helps you make a decision on whether the Advanced Guide Workbook
is for you.
Date:    Tue, 04 Nov 97 16:22 HST
Subject: Re: Yards of Silk

Sorry I missed WHERE Western Market is located - can you repeat?
I have a folder of neat places to visit for fabric - all over - and
would certainly have to add that place!  Then when I get somewhere
I can pull out info on all of the nearby places.
Subject: Re narrow hemmer 
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 22:04:04 -0600

I cut the top corner at a 45 deg. angle and use a scrap of solvy. And
practice, practice, practice, holding it just right to turn it in. Strips
of muslin sure help..........I use mine a lot for children's clothes -
sashes, particularly.

Keep Stitching,
Subject: Re: Thread Quality
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 18:10:18 -0800

Try putting a thread net on your drooling spool.  If you don't have access
to that notion, cut a piece out of a knee high about 2 inches long, and
stitch in down the middle to make it hafl width.  Slip it over the drool
spool and that should stop the problem.
Hope that helps.
DeAnn & her 830
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 01:12:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Artista 180

I'm a Bernina dealer and I just finished training on the Artista 180 and the
machines will be out in the stores in the next few weeks.  All I can say is
go to your local dealer and take a test drive.  Once you see all the features
you will understand the price.  The Artista is the most technologically
advanced sewing computer on the market.  You will be blown away.  I was!!!
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 21:22:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Needs advice of use of monofilament thread

We used to use the YLI monofilament thread in the shop until we discovered
Sulky clear invisible.  The sulky works so much better.  It is a clear
polyester.  The YLI is like nylon.  The Sulky sews easier and you don' t have
as many problems with tension.
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 08:20:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: L.A. Fabric Shops

I LOVE the Cotton Shop in Redondo Beach.  Beautiful fabric and a very clean
shop, quilters heaven.  You can find everything from polar fleece to raw
silk to upholstery fabric and everything in between. There is also a shop
in the Ontario area called the Fabric Patch, also try Jane's in Lake
Forest.  I personally have not been there but have heard VERY good things
from other quilters.

Enjoy your visit!

Subject: Re: New Bernina Artista 180

Basically it replaces the 1630 in that it will be the new TOL and the 1630 &
1530 will no longer be produced.  It is above the 160 Virtuosa.  It is a combo
sewing/embrodeiry machine with software option.  It awesome.
ate: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 17:33:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Fabric Store in San Francisco

One that I highly recommend is called Black Cats Quilts.  It is
excellent (in my opinion).

2608 Ocean Avenue
San Francisco, CA

Subject: Automatic button holes
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 15:52:56 -0800

I have a very basic question that I am almost embarrassed to ask!!  I have the

1630 and I can't figure out the how to make an automatic buttonhole (the one 
that remembers the size of the first one you do.)  Could someone explain it to

me in detail.  Is there an icon on the screen I'm suppose to use instead of
reverse button next to the needle?  I'm confused!!! 

Subject: Re: 730
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 15:45:01 -0800

I just read your post on the net.  Where is the site for older models?  I
could not find it looking up berninausa.  I have an 830 that I LOVE but not
many people seem to have them out there.  I would love to find a site that
deals primarily with the older models.
Grammie Deb
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 12:58:40 EST
Subject: Price

In a message dated 97-11-04 10:17:05 EST, Sandi writes:

>>  I don't think  it would hurt their marketing of the equipment at ALL if they were  to exPLAIN the reason for these high costs.   >>

Good point Sandi.  These machines never come down in price until they are
updated or discontinued and replaced by newer, and more expensive models.
Other technology (VCRs, computers, etc.) always seems to come down in price.
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 01:02:33 -0500
Subject: High Costs

Now, I'm not defending Bernina's pricing policies but here's something to
think about:

In the past ten years the computer marked (read the demand as well as the
quantity demanded of cmputers) has increased tremedously. Now all other
thigs being equal this would RAISE the equilibrium price of computers. But
then you get into market theory and the computer market really behaves like
a perfectly competitive market. In other words when computers started to
take off companies (current and prosepctive) who were not in the computer
development/manufacturing/sales business saw that those that were were
making profits. They enter the industry. Keeping things simple this
increases supply, putting downward pressure on price. As long as the
industry is seen as profitable new companies will enter and the market will
continue to expand.

The sewing market, on the other hand is reltaively thin on both ends. While
a lot of people might sew occasionally the number of poeple that are
serious enough about it to be constantly in the market for new machines and
accessories is small, especially when compared to the computer market.
Likewise the number of companies producing and selling sewing machines is
relatively small. With these thin markets you will pay more for equivalent
technology as in order for the manufacturer to recoup their investment
(fixed cost) they must charge more. (Similar to why brand name drugs cost
more than generics; the brandname company has to price to product to
support their research while the generic company has much lower R&D costs.)
To further the situation with the market fragmented by the different
brands, unlike PC's, not having interchangable asscessories when it comes
to things like presser feet, the market for a particular company's products
is even thinner. Genenric presser feet that can be mad to fit more than one
brand of machine should always be cheaper than those that only fit one
brand when the demand for the foot is relatively normal. (Would notbe truue
for a foot for binding edges with lasagne noodles as who in the world would
want this??)

I cringe at the cost of sewing paraphanelia. Very pricey. But look at this
example. The Brother, Babylock, and Deco embroidery mcahines all use the
same embroidery cards. The blank card for use with the scanner or software
is well over $100. So why isn't some Japanses company chugging these things
out and selling them for $20 just like the cheap floppy disks you can now
buy? I'm sure it's not that the technology is patented-they could make
their own with four times the capacity I'm sure-or that it's particularly
expnsive to produce-memory is cheap. Rather I think it's because the market
is so thin that they are unlikely to really do well. Econimics.

Forgive my rambling but there's economics behind the price of sewing
equipment just like there is behind the price of milk. Unfortunately
economics isn't fair even though it's what's really in charge of 90% of the
businesses in this world.

(If there are any trained economists out there I'd love to hear from you
about this subject as I've had my share of college level economics but by
no means know everything or am always perfectlly correct in my analysis.)

(I really did read and edit this! Honest!)
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 09:38:48 EST
Subject: Who'd want to buy a 180?

In response to Estelle who asked why one would buy a combination machine?

I would, and have my order in for the Artista180, for the following reason!

I do extensive surface design first.....such as airbrushing, machine
embroidery, beadwork......then I put the garments I do together.  I also have
an 1130 which has all the garment sewing features I desire......quickremoval
machine basting, needle down, knee lever, memory features.....etc.  

For a brief time I owned a NewHome9000 machine embroidery/sewing machine.  I
hated it.  While it's embroidery features were very nice and I made use of it,
all I can say is that NEWHOME are not BERNINAs and I sold it within a year.  

You have a good point about needing to use the sewing machine and the
embroidery machine separately...such as having a machine that just sews, and a
machine that just embroiders.  This is fine too and there are people that
would fit that market as well.

I believe the target market, and I may be wrong, but I think the target market
for the Artista machines may very well be those that sew the way I
do.......will use the machine embroidery either before a garment is made or
after.  Not to just whip up  a cute little charachter on a sweatshirt.....the
other machines.....the Deco600, will be for those things.  The Artista is
quite an investment and one that I for one am very eager to make.  I would
guess, that the purchasers of this Artista have other machines as well.

I hope I made sense!  

Have you hugged YOUR Bernina today?????

Subject: new software
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 08:13:00 -0600

Hi my name is Rhonda, I'm a Pfaff owner.  I have an embroidery business called, More than Monograms.  I've joined this list in order to collect information on the new software coming out by Bernina, Artista.
Can anyone tell me about this software, what it does and when it will be on
the market?
I've heard that it will have several different fill types.  Does anyone
know anything about this software and what all it will do?
Any info will be greatly appreciated,
Subject: Baby Clothes Patterns
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 12:11:51 -0800

Could anyone tell me whether or not patterns for infants run true to size. 
Can you accurately go by the weight/height listed on the patterns? 
Thanks in advance for your response.
Subject: Cabinet
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 10:09:05 -0800

I don't very often get the opportunity to read this digest in depth any
more, but as Robbi's message was at the top I thought I would add my two
bits (hi Robbi). I have a cabinet which was made for my old Bernina 801
- - beautiful pecan wood piece of furniture. I bought a 1630 a few months
ago and my daughter wanted a second machine so my 801 is on loan to her.
Since I cannot afford to get her a cabinet and we have not found one at
the thrift shops yet, my husband took a piece of wood and traced the
shape of the opening of the insert in the cabinet and used it to cut a
hole  in a wood platform which is about the same size as the area of the
cabinet that is completely open for the machine. He put four pieces of
1" inch thick dowel as legs on the corners so that the whole platform is
the same level as the arm of the machine. It is nice and sturdy and
works well. I used the same saw (keyhole or jigsaw works) and enlarged
the small hole that was on the left front of my sewing machine cabinet
so that the 1630 knee lift fit through it. Good solution for all and
when I get my machine back, I will have the platform to use with t.
Usually Melissa leaves one machine at my house so we can both sew
together, but at the moment she has a project where she is piecing and
machine quilting wall hangings for Christmas AND WANTED THEM BOTH HANDY.

Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 00:07:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Metallic Thread

You need to use a needle designed specifically for metalic threads. The eye
is larger etc . I do believe one of the brand names of the needle  is

Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 10:08:43 -0500
Subject: Misc.

Thank you to everyone who so nicely answere my queries re glue sticks,
expecially Robbie Fanning.  I have heard a lot about a spray for
"basting" quilts together.  Is this a 3M brand, and if so which
particular one as they make several different ones.  
I tried reaching the geocities address for preemies, but was told that
there is no "preemies" page available.  I did reach geocities though. 
Any more info on that?  Bunny 
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 08:54:45 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Artista 180I

You can't compare the Artista to the Pentium computer for prices.  There 
is a lot of research and development that goes into any computerized 
product, so to get the price down you have to sell huge volumes of them.  
There are a LOT more PCs sold than Artista 180's.  Believe me, a product 
as sophisticated as the 180 apparently is is very expensive to develop.  
Combine that with precision mechanical workings made out of top quality 
materials . . .

And, as you mentioned, even Pentium computers were initially a lot more 
expensive than they are now.  After you make back your costs you start 
bringing the price down.  Especially if you need to clear the items out 
becase there is a next generation version waiting in the wings.

Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 08:36:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Deco 500

Yup. Since the technology on the Babylock Espree and the Bernina Deco is all
Brother generated, those three brands are almost always compatible (I think
there is a Disney card from Brother that has been rigged not to work on
Babylock or Bernina embroidery units....but that's only what I've heard....)
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 16:45:53 -0600 (CST)
Subject: protecting ceramic buttons

How about putting buttonholes instead of buttons.  Then you attach the 
ceramic buttons to regular buttons with thread, creating a thread shank.  
Put the regular button in the buttonhole on the button side of the 
garment, and put the ceramic buttonhole through the normal garment 
buttonhole.  You just completely remove the buttons before washing.

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 16:25:51 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Nylon thread

Well, we have a spool of nylon monofilament fishing line over 20 years 
old that's still plenty strong.  And conservation conscious fishermen are 
very careful to gather and throw away loose line from tangles, etc. 
rather than leave it out it the environment because it causes a 
long-lasting hazard to wildlife.  I'm not sure how this translates into 
quilt life, though.

What is the nylon thread like, anyway?  I would think it would be too 
much stronger than the quilt material so that it could cause the quilt to 
tear too easily?

Date:    Tue, 04 Nov 97 10:55 HST
Subject: magnetic wrist pin holder

I saw the third of the Tailoring series videos by Nancy Ziemann (sp?)
on PBS on Sat. (now that I have discovered that show - I will have
to watch it faithfully).  She had what looked like a velcro wristband
with a magnetic rectangle for sticking pins when you're working on
something.  That would be soooo handy!  I looked in Nancy's Notions
catalog - didn't see it.  Does anyone know where you can get it and
the cost?  It's a great idea.  I have the off-the-wrist variety - but
it's often out of reach - and I have TWO of them!  This would always
be WITH me - which would be a time saver.
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 20:51:09 -0500
Subject: sad 530

I have rescued a 530 that needs an overhaul.  I don't know the estimate yet
but think it will be high for repairs.  Is this a great machine or how high
do you think I should go to have it brought to life?  Or should I keep to
just look at?  Just curious.
Thanks for any advice.
Subject: Serger and Sewing Newsletter
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 13:40:05 -0800

I just received notice that the November 1997 issue will be the last for
both of these publications.  Subscribers are supposed to receive extensions
to their SewNews subscriptions.  I am sorry to see these newsletters cease
to exist, they have always had such good tips and helpful information.  

Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 09:35:01 -1000
Subject: Re: Metallic Thread

>metallic thread and it keeps breaking. I am trying to stitch on a vest
>consisting of  two layers of cotton/polyester  fabric.   I am using an
>embroidery needle and regular thread in the bobbin. Could someone tell 
>what I am doing wrong?

Maybe nothing - I've had very good luck with metallic thread doing 2
things - 1) I put it in a baby food jar on the table, seems to reduce
tension, and 2) I use  a metal needle.  See if that works.
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 97 22:12:32 UT
Subject: RE: Protecting ceramic buttons??

My daughter has a dress with ceramic buttons.  The label says to machine wash 
turned inside out.  This seems to work just fine.  I'd think inside out inside

one of those bags would work fine.  Probably you should button it up first, so

it stays turned inside out.  The idea is, to keep the buttons from hitting the

side of the washing machine tub and dryer drum -- hitting the metal could 
break the buttons.

Hope this helps.

Subject: Using sewing machine for cover stitch
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 10:31:12 -0500

Pat wrote:
>>how do you use the 1530 with twin needle to do cover stitch?  (I
presume it simulates the cover stitch)  How does it work?  What are the
settings?  Could it be done on a 1260?  >>

It's easy to simulate the cover stitch on a sewing machine.  Just put in a 
double needle and thread it.  I usually lengthen the stitch length a little 
(3 or 3.5) on knits.  You get a double row of stitching on the top, and a 
zigzag on the bottom.

Hope this helps,
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 10:27:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Machine Quilt Stitch

You can do a mock hand quilting stitch with your machines.  Go to the Bernina
of America home page and they have a list which tells you how to reproduce it
on the different model machines.   Go to   Good
Luck, Karen
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 18:07:20 -0700
Subject: Bernina overlock


I'm looking for a Bernina overlock with a coverstitch option- 1998 model.
Are there any mail order companies that I can order it through? Any other

Thanks, Stephanie
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 21:37:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Polarfleece

A warning from the Great White Frozen North.......... aka Canada ! ! ! ! 
Polar fleece is highly insulating because of it's construction (lots of air
trapped amongst fine fibres) and because it absorbes very little moisture
(It is made with non absorbent materials....... some of it actually made
from plastic soft drink bottles melted down and re-formed into very fine
filaments) . Putting a batting made of highly absorbant cotton and a cotton
flannel lining rather defeats the purpose.......... You would do better to
layer a windproof topper over it and another thinner fleece layer under. 

When my two were younger I used to write their name and telephone number
with a fine permanent marker inside the pocket lining. a, it was not obvious
but we knew where it was if any school-yard bully tried to steal it, b, it
was a back-up to the regular woven/sew in  labels that I used for their good
things........... got double the quantity for only a little more and had
them made M.L. Powell J.F.    That way I could fold under the 'other' end so
my daughter was....M.L.Powell, my son......Powell J.F.     My mother got
away with even more since my eldest brothers second initial was the same as
my other brothers first name's initial, so she had R.S.Collins M.E.   for
Roderick Stuart Collins,  Sandy Collins, and Collins Margaret Elizabeth. 

Not having a 'fancy' 'Nina, I still write some names on things like tea
towels for my daughter in college dorm, by freehand machine embroidery.
Then since there are three women in this household at times: my mother, my
daughter and me, my daughter has an "M" embroidered on the right hip of all
her panties, mine have a lace flower sewn onto the centre front elastic and
my mothers are plain, really does help when we are all hom,e and have a big
joint wash. When we had single cot sized bed linens, twin sized bed linens,
long twin sized bed linens, standard double and queen sized bed linens in my
parents house I emboidered a row of fancy stitching with my , then, brand
new, 730, in a colour to match the room each bed was in.................real
swank..... there was the Blue Room, and the Green Room....... cos back then
we only had plain white cotton sheets!. 

Liz P. 
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 12:22:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Maternity Clothing

There are several things that need to be done:
These directions work for  prepregnancy size 8-12 person

1. Allow for a 40"   "waist" plus some ease
2. Remember that bust and rib cage will increase too!  Use shapes with plenty
of ease in these areas
3. The front hem should be about 1 1/2" inches longer than the back hem.
4. for pants think tweedle dum...waist line raised 1 1/2" in back  4" in
front.  I found the stretch panel in front concept to be flawed.  It  is too
tight for the belly at the lower edge. There are also pants that skip the
belly altogether..stretch hiphuggers with a wide elastic band.  Might be a
little chilly in the winter.

If you or the person you are sewing for is not very pregnant yet it is a good
idea to allow budget and time to have a couple of  outfits with a lot of ease
for the last two months.  It is a morale boost to have something new to wear
plus some of the clothes that looked big at 4 months will be tight and
uncomfortable by 8 months.
Good luck!  I had the luck of sharing clothes with a sewing buddy who was
also an architect...we had some really jazzy outfits.  I would buy one of the
Lauren Sara Vogue maternity wardrobe patterns for a starting point.
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 12:50:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Phone # for G Street Fabric

The # for the Maryland store is (301) 231-8998.  The store in Centreville VA
is (703) 818-8090.  Great Place!
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 22:27:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Metallic Thread

Buy a Metafil needle, it is designed just for metalic thread so it won't
break.  Also need to change your needle tension to about 2.
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 21:07:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Seasonal Buttons

Re: Sandi/Seasonal Buttons

Sandi have you thought of using a polymer modelling clay such as "FIMO" or
If you are really hopelessly 'sculpture challenged' you can get candy molds
at cake decorating supply shops and mold buttons in them. "THREADS" #39,
Feb/March 1992, has an article about making Polymer Clay Buttons....... they
suggest either embedding a loop of wire (paperclip) into the button, or
poking two holes through before 'baking'. 

If you can't be bothered to take buttons off and re-sew them afterwards,
use buttons with a shank then ask someone in the armed forces for some
button backers, they are like tiny dainty 'Cotter Pins' with an extra loop
on one side. If you don't want the button backers to show, then either
interface the 'button side' of the front and work tiny buttonholes/eyelet
holes for the button shanks to go through, then face as usual, or hide them
beneath an extra fold of facing. (Those button backers are so that you don't
spoil your No 1 Dress Uniform by getting metal polish onto the buttons when
you clean them, the on base store usually carries them)

Personally I WOULD NOT risk expensive ceramic buttons in the washing
machine, and not in the dryer either, or at the dry
cleaners........................if in doupt take it off!!!!!!!!! Buttons of
Polymer Clay, apparently, are okay at fairly low temp/gentle washing machine
washes, but shouldn't go in the dryer..... clunk clunk, chip chip, 

Carol:......................Hey, I'm a single mother and I see other single
mothers as often spending more time and energy with their children than
couples do............... I know my two had my undivided attention, so we
did lots of things from walking miles around Toronto when we still lived
down there, to going camping, on picnics, building quincies (snow caves
tunnelled out as 'emergency shelters') constructing furniture, halloween
costumes, lots of things. One or the other was always expected to be my
helper, or me theirs, so they both learnt to plumb, to use a sewing machine,
cook, clean, and shovel snow. Maybe it is because I couldn't afford to pay
anyone else to do these things, but we, as a family, shared a great deal. My
daughter even took me up gliding, and my son got me out in a kayak and a
canoe................ And I taught them both how to sew on buttons, mend
zips, and darn socks.

ZQuilter:..............If you want a 'sitting down Santa' just put 'bends'
in his legs for knees..........  assuming the leg is a simple tube shape, on
the wrong side make a dart across the back half of the tube at the knee
level, sewing a line that is just about from 12 till 4 on the clock face (
not a full semi-circle, but not too shallow curve a either.)  That will make
the leg bend, then he will sit easier. If you make the 'top' of the leg
likewise, by scooping out the front half of the leg tube before you sew the
tube into the body you will get a sitting thigh position as
well.............(think......the dart being double ended takes away fabric
and makes the bend happen, at the top of the leg the downwards curve of the
scoop removes enough to 'raise' the leg to a sitting position.  
Otherwise, if you are wanting this to be a real 'quicky' why not fasten
wires onto those swim noodle sponge things
then wrap them in batting to stuff the legs and arms, then you an position
him like one of the "BENDY" toys we used to have. 

Liz P 
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 21:29:38 -0800
Subject: 830 manual

Hope someone out there can help!  A very dirty 830 followed me home
today.  She came without a manual & I'd like to clean & oil her
properly.  Does anyone have an 830 manual they'd be willing to copy?
(I'll certainly pay all costs; e-mail me privately to arrange).  Or does
Bernina Co. have a supply of manuals for older machines?  I'll keep her
under wraps until she's cleaned up - DH has adjusted to my having a Nova
and my beloved 1230 as well as a lovely FW, and to my wanting a serger
for Christmas; but this new addition may send him over the edge!  TIA

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 21:23:53 -0600
Subject: Re:  Protecting ceramic buttons??

> Has anyone got some experience with washing ceramic buttons?
> I will hand wash if I HAVE to - but hate to HAVE to!

I made a Halloween sweatshirt, and used the following trick when
applying the buttons for surface embellishment:

I glued clear plastic snaps (male end) to the backs of the ceramic
buttons.  Then I rubbed marking chalk on the nubs of the snaps, placed
them on the sweatshirt where I wanted them to be, and sewed the female
end onto the shirt by machine, with monofilament.  Worked well for
several years, but due to the nature of my job, the stress was a bit
much, and the glued snap fell off of the button, and I lost one of the
buttons.  This works best with buttons big enough to use more than 1
snap if you need to keep them "upright."  Got my money's worth, though,
for 4 years.  I'd do it again.  I think I'd use jewelry glue instead of
tacky glue, though.

Good luck,
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 06:44:04 -0500
Subject: roll hemmer application

A fail proof method I learned for teaching hemming nylon tricot will
work on anything.  First lay the fabric wrong side up.  Then hand roll
the beginning edge of the fabric and insert a long pin with the head
extended away from the edge.  Place the roll 1/2 inch under the presser
foot and lower the needle only into the fabric.  Lower the presser foot
and remove the pin..  Sew back to the edge, then forward the 1/2 inch,
holding on to the thread tails when you go forward.  You now have a
secure roll without a thread mess. Lift the presser foot and feed the
fabric into the scroll of the foot with a pin or by hand.  It will take
a few seconds at best once you have done it a few times.  A trick from
Linda Z,s back in l969 when we were all still babies! The shop is still
in Arlington Heights, Illinois for all of you lucky people in the
area.     Happy sewing.  Ginny
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 10:16:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject:  re: mail order fabrics

try fabrics are great and she is very good at
selecting color combos.....
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 14:13:40 -0800
Subject: Advice in sewing pop corn material

I have this nice material which is like a wrinkle fluffy one. I once sew
a tennis skirt and had problems with it, because every time I had to
iron the seams it stretched. Worst, I wear it to play tennis, and had
the embarrasement that it all curled up when it got wet with
perspiration. Now, I bought another one similar but I am not going to
use it for playing tennis. I just want to sew a nice blouse. Is there a
special way to handle this material? I connot see sewing without
ironing.   Cusy
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 19:08:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Metallic Thread

Sarita--I just taught a class on sewing with metallic threads.  You need
to use a metallica needle, not an embroidery one.  this type of needle
is lined with teflon in the hole that the thread goes through.  The
reason your thread keeps breaking is that metal is rubbing against
metal.  You will also want to use a light weight bobbin thread--60 wt.
is the best.  I think you will find that if you do these two things, you
will have success with your project.
Good luck!
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 08:04:39 -0600
Subject: ceramic buttons/button covers

Have my own kiln, actually two, and have made cermaics for years.

Buttons CAN be weshed on garments INSIDE OUT on a GENTLE cycle.
I have a cycle that hardly spins the clothes dry - it was meant to do 
sweaters & woolens.  Spinning, or any function where ther is NOT water 
in the machine to buffer the clothes can damage the buttons.

DO NOT TUMBLE DRY, they will bang against the dryer walls and be 

I have OFTEN used button covers.  I glue the ceramics to the button 
covers and use a regular shirt button on the garment.  This is actually 
easier because you can use a standard size button hole and the button 
covers NEVER need to be washed.

The most "popular" one has been the shape of the state  of Texas and the 
button cover is so much easier than using the extra large buttonhole 
we'd need  to accomodate the shape.

Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 22:48:24 -0600
Subject: converting basic patterns to maternity

>Dawn   writes:
>Is there a basic pattern adjustment that can be made to tops, dresses,
>jumpers to convert to maternity?

I don't know if there are any hard and fast rules for this -- but this is

what I do.....

Typically, you can leave the shoulders/neckline the same and add
in the bust/arm hole/upper arm proportionately to create enough room
for a 2 cup increase.  Draft the pattern 2-4" larger in the back hip area
and the front about 12" larger in the stomach area. (I usually measure
a maternity top that I like the cut of and adjust as necessary to achieve

this same measurement.)  A length adjustment is usually necessary to
create a nice line and to accommodate the fullness of the top.  The
front is typically 2-4" longer than the center back with a curve at the
side area to blend it together.  (again, look at a RTW top that you like)

With patterns 99 cents in the chain stores -- it might be just as easy to
buy some new patterns.  (when you're pregnant you have every right
to take the easy way out! Ha!)

Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 11:40:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Metallic Thread

  Metallic thread DOES have a tendency to break. It's NOT your fault!!! One
thing that I have found very helpful for this problem is to get one of those
"Lube-a thread" thingies, and mount it on my machine down near the bottom
just before it gets to the needle. Then, a few drops of thread lubricant goes
onto this little  jewel, and the thread breaking problem goes away. ( THe
device is kind of a u-shaped plastic holder, bottom of the u flattened, with
a little felt pad on it to hold the lubricant)
  At the time I purchased it, I was making Christmas banners for church, and
satin stitching appliqued lame lettering. Believe me, I noticed what a
difference it made. There are other thread lubricants on the market, BUT most
of those go onto the spool itself, which will end up with the lubricant going
through your tension discs, and INSIDE your machine, which you DO NOT WANT.
The Lube-a-thread system keeps the lubricant out of your machine, while still
helping to keep that metallic thread from breaking.
    Hope this helps.
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 08:37:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Disney Card

The Disney card is available only in Japan.  It works on my Deco 500, 
but I have heard it does not work on the 600.  the card is great.  

Also available in Japan only is the Sesame Street Card.  This one is 
even better than the Disney card.  It too only works on the 500.
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 21:32:21 -0500
Subject: Tilt Table

I saw someone using a piece of wood molding for a tilt table.  The molding
had a triangle shape to allow for the tilt.  She had back surgery and told
me this was definitely a help and also inexpensive.
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 11:29:59 -0500
Subject: Quilt pattern

Hi all!

I am looking for a quilt pattern that I saw, but it wasn't for sale.

It is by Keeping You In Stitches and the name of the pattern is
"Wilderness Quilt."

Does anyone have a source to mail order this pattern?

TIA, Mary Ann
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 23:10:15 -0500
Subject: Mary Jo's while on vacation

Just a quick thank you to everyone who wrote to me about Mary Jo's in
Gastonia, NC.  Dh and I stayed in Gastonia to give me enough time to see
it, go to the motel, and then go back and buy.  I enjoyed every minute
of the search in the store.  And came home with quite a few goodies.
Thanks again.

Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 22:34:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Greater Cleaning/Tune-up Than I Expected -- $1,100

You will love your new 1530.  I traded in my 1090.  I use so many of the
features including the alphabets - I even put my name and phone number
inside my jackets -- just in case I lose them somewhere.  I also sew for 3
wonderful granddaughters who are 5, 4 and 4..and now a new boy...  The
things you can create!  Now you need to consider a serger!  A true
Subject: Re: Deco 500
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 14:56:50 PST

Most of the cards ar interchangeable.  I do know that the new Brother 
Snoopy card doesn't work well, but all the older ones do.  Just check 
your phone directory for Brother or Babylock dealers.  They carry the 
cards or can order them for you.   The price is about the same as the 
Bernina cards.
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 09:57:31 -1000
Subject: Re: Machine Quilt Stitch

>I have an 1130 and I also have a 1000 (bought one and inherited the 
> I keep hearing people talk about machine quilting using the quilting 
> I don't think my machines have this stitch, but someone tell me if 
>wrong.  Is there a better stitch than straight stitch for machine 
> What's the best stitch length?  Do you use a different stitch for 
>in the ditch vs out? 

The quilting stitch looks like a hand stitch and the sashiko stitch. 
It's more decorative than anything else.  The way it works in the adapted
form is you use a nylon thread on top and a heavier thread on bobbin and
adjust the tension and the bobbin thread comes up on the top.  Go to the
Bernina site ( and send them an Email asking for the
quilting stitch directions for the 1130.  Its an adaptation of the
feather stitch that your machine has.  This adaptation works with
adjustment on the Activa 140 also.  I use the straight stitch for machine
quilting and I use it for quilting in the ditch BUT sometimes I get fancy
and use the feather stitch along seams.  I personally believe that the
straight stitch is the best and I would use the shortest stitch I could
compatible with the weight of the batting - you know, the thicker the
longer stitch.  I also use the walking foot for ditch and straight line
quilting, and then use the darning foot for free motion machine quilting.
 I have tried ditch stitching using my edge foot and if the bat is thin
enuf like Warm & Natural I haven't had any problems.  The Bernina people
are great about responding to questions - usually takes a day or 2. 
Happy quilting.
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 00:12:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:Website for Bernina FAQ 

Just wondering if the website given for the Bernina FAQ Website could be
wrong? I tried the one given and it came up unknown. I got it as

Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 10:08:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Machine Quilt Stitch

To Linda who asked about the machine quilt stitch for her older
machine--check out the Bernina USA website (, I think) FAQ
area.  There is an article there about how to set up various machines to do
this stitch.  I have tried out the stitch on my 1090 and it looks great, but
I haven't used it on a quilt yet.

Date: Thu, 06 Nov 1997 07:14:02 -0600
Subject: Three Piece Outfit

I have just completed a three piece outfit of plaid flannel, denim and a
light weight long sleeve T-Shirt.  I made a two tiered skirt of plaid flannel.
I dropped the top tier to the knee and left an opening on the side of the 
bottom tier.  The opening was closed with quarter size buttons which I made by
rolling a small bias tube of denim.  The skirt was then wrinkled in the dryer.

I used a short jacket pattern and used denim in the center front and center 
back panels with a plaid flannel in the side front and back.  The sleeves of 
denim were split up the center and bias binding of plaid flannel was added to 
the center of the sleeves.  I rolled tubes of the same plaid flannel and made 
seven small buttons to close the center of each sleeve and center front of 
jacket..  Plaid bias binding was placed around the edges of the jacket and 

The second jacket is a Christmas jacket to go with the same plaid skirt.  I 
purchased a large light weight T-Shirt at Sams Club.  I ripped it apart and 
used it for fabric to make a short jacket.  I used the same plaid bias binding
around the edges of the jacket.  Ribbing was cut off of the sleeves and cuffs 
of plaid flannel were added.  Covered plaid buttons were used down the front
of jacket.  I appliqu#233#d a snow man on the right front wearing a long stocking cap made of the plaid flannel.  The left front had appliqued mittens and snow flakes.  I am very pleased with the way this project turned out.

What project are you working on at this time?

Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 08:26:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 1630 FAQ

In a message dated 97-11-06 01:23:21 EST, you write:

>> The 1630 FAQ has been updated!

 There is now a web site for Frequently Asked Questions (and Tips &
 Tricks) about the 1630 machine.  You can find it at: >>

I tried reaching this site and got "cannot be retrieved"  can you check it
again please.
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 07:50:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Walking Foot

Thanks so much for the detailed response on the old and the new Walking Foot.
My supplier stll has not received my order yet. Calling him today to see what
is up.As yet I have not been able to experiment with the quilting stitch and
walking foot.
Any hints to offer me once I get the foot and set up my 1630 version 2 for my
FIRST quilting?
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 07:40:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Metallic Thread

In a message dated 97-11-06 06:18:53 EST, you write:

>> but I tried using some
 metallic thread and it keeps breaking. I am trying to stitch on a vest
 consisting of  two layers of cotton/polyester  fabric.   I am using an
 embroidery needle and regular thread in the bobbin. Could someone tell me
 what I am doing wrong? >>

You need to use a metallica needle, which has a longer eye. Also, be sure to
loosen the tension on the top; thread the bobbin thread through the eye on
the bobbin case to increase its tension so the top thread is pulled to the

Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 01:52:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Yards of Silk

Audrey, read your letter on yards of silk......Are you talking about China
and/or Hong Kong? I used to live in Southern China and mostly polyesters were
available in the street markets of Guangzhou back in 1993/94.
I am going back to HK and China in mid December for a very short time. If you
know of any locations to get to really fast....please let me know. Marcia 
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 03:43:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Metallic Thread

  Metallic thread DOES have a tendency to break. It's NOT your fault!!! One
thing that I have found very helpful for this problem is to get one of those
"Lube-a thread" thingies, and mount it on my machine down near the bottom
just before it gets to the needle. Then, a few drops of thread lubricant goes
onto this little  jewel, and the thread breaking problem goes away. ( THe
device is kind of a u-shaped plastic holder, bottom of the u flattened, with
a little felt pad on it to hold the lubricant)
  At the time I purchased it, I was making Christmas banners for church, and
satin stitching appliqued lame lettering. Believe me, I noticed what a
difference it made. There are other thread lubricants on the market, BUT most
of those go onto the spool itself, which will end up with the lubricant going
through your tension discs, and INSIDE your machine, which you DO NOT WANT.
The Lube-a-thread system keeps the lubricant out of your machine, while still
helping to keep that metallic thread from breaking.
    Hope this helps.
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 23:10:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Smocking

Kay wrote:

> >
> Linda's Silver Needles is supposed to have great prices on pleaters.
> Thier ad in Sew Beautiful says "Unsure of which pleater is right for
> you?  Call toll free for free, friendly advice--and our low, low,
> prices.

I bought a pleater about a year ago from Linda's Silver Needle, thanks to
the information I received from many on the Bernina list.  They were very
helpful when I talked to them, and recommended which brand they had the
fewest problems with.  They even sent it to an addresss other than my own
(I'm in Canada) so I could take advantage of the free shipping and pick it
up myself when we came on vacation to these friends.   Everything else they
sent to my address.  I never got the video from them, but I figure, for me,
that would be just something else to store. I got the 24 needle one, and it
works great.  It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out, and their
instruction booklet eliminated any hesitation on my part.  I'm making
smocked Christmas ornaments and took it with me on To give an
example of how easy, it takes about 6 minutes to thread the thing...they
included a needle threader...and about 1 minute to roll the 8 X 32 fabric on
the dowel, then 5 more minutes to pleat the whole thing...14 rows.   Love

Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 19:40:26 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Bernina Dealers 

Thanks to everyone's fasinating letters that I really enjoying reading.  I'd
like to ask about a Bernina dealer in Houston, Tx, area and fabric stores,
quilting shops not to miss....daughter lives in NW area, just moved into a
new home for Thanksgiving. We proud parents are visiting for that holiday,
and would love to visit a good Bernina dealer, quilt shops & fabric stores.
Thanks to everyone for their help in advance.   NinaSue 
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 21:52:11 -0500
Subject: re:Deco 500

Hi all,
Ellen posted:>>
Bernina Sisters/Brothers:  Is it true that Brother, Baby-Lock embroidery
cards are interchangeable with Deco 500 machines?  Looking for a source for
these other cards. Please advise.>> 

Ellen, the Babylock and Brother cards do indeed work in the deco 500
machines.  I believe that one of the cards does work in the deco but
unfortunetly I don't recall which card.  Your dealer should know.
Good luck.
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 21:09:08 -0500
Subject: Binder

Lisa, I have the expensive binder foot.  Please share your "tricks" with
everyone.  Do your have any tricks for doing a square corner? Thanks.
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 15:46:32 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Wouldn't it be nice


About finding Burda patterns . . .

I don't think you can buy individual patterns online, but you can 
subscribe to the pattern magazines, which each contain a multitude of 
complete patterns in a multitude of sizes.  They have a magazine for 
toddlers and children's patterns.  The price is right for how many 
patterns you get.  Here's a web site:

Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 15:48:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Guttermann Thread

>I went into a quilt shop on Sunday, I haven't been to often, to get some
>thread.  I normally buy Mettler, but they only had Gutterman.  I told her
>what I had heard about some of it being made in Mexico and the store owner
>that apparently this had stopped and she did not buy any of that thread.
>However, she did pick up a spool and on the end it said, "Made in Greece."
>will this thread be as good as the German made?  I bought a spool to try.

I'm currently using some Guttermann "Greek" thread for a hand-quilting
project and like it very much.

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 19:18:12 -0500
Subject: Ceramic button protection

Someone asked about protecting ceramic buttons during washing. There is
a product for this, but I can't remember the name. It looks like a soft
plastic purple doughnut with a slit on one side. You slip the button
into the slit and it is then surrounded by the soft plastic on all
sides. This gadget comes in different sizes. I saw it at a quilt fabric
shop that sells ceramic/fancy buttons. Perhaps Nancy's Notions carries

Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 00:51:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: burda on the web

 Helen Free : Subject: Wouldn't it be nice...

>I was just thinking;  with the recent closure of one of my favorite fabric
>stores, wouldn't it be nice if Burda sold their pattern line over the

Helen..... I don't know of a way of actually buying the patterns on the
internet, but the Burda Monthly magazine is available in the USA by postal
subscription. It usually has 35 to 40+ patterns in it, and most patterns are
in a range of 4 or 5 sizes. As well there is a quarterly especially for us
larger ladies, and some ocassional specials...... there used to be an annual
one of wedding dresses, another of Dirndles, then ones of baby clothes,
Maternity clothes, toddlers togs, and childrens stuff........ There is a
Burda subscription site for the USA on the web, and I think you will find a
bookstore or news-paper-shop in most big cities selling them. Try the German
deli's as well. Elliot Lake is a very small remote place and I can buy the
monthly and the larger size edition here in town.....Sudbury which is our
nearest 'bigger' place, has a shop that sells most of the Burda Mags. There
are knitting, cross stitch, and general handicraft ones too.

Liz  .   All you fellow feline lovers, please wish my most
miscievious and bad cat to return....... Nalah escaped yesterday, no one
noticed her absence till evening food time, then we realised that she must
have got out at noon. She has always lived as a strictly indoors cat, which
has not limited her magnetism for evil............cost me $200 to have the
plaster board repaired after she climbed up through the pipes under the
vanity then beside the sewage down pipe and into the space under the bath
then couldnt find her way out. Be honest, would you have left her there, or
taken a handy saw to the wall and cut a large hole to get her out?? At least
it isnt too cold, or wet, and we are in a quiet part of town away from busy
highways, but I'm worried sick about my little noodle-brain.  
Subject: Ceramic buttons
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 17:08:38 +0000

Two suggestions in response to how to wash a vest with special ceramic

1.  There are plastic button covers available now through, I think, Keepsake
quilting. If not, it was Nancy's notions.  Anyway, these plastic covers are
designed similarly to decorative button covers, only made of seethrough
plastic, domed in the middle to protect your buttons in the wash.

2.  If you can't get those and want to wash the vest in your machine on the
ultra-delicate cycle, try buttoning your vest, turn it inside out, and then
"cage" it within a sealed pillow case.  Throw into the washer, on the
delicate cycle, with just a few other "gentle type" items (i.e. no garments
with heavy zippers, buckles, etc.)

Hope that helps!

Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 12:05:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 1230 Won't Shut Off


I had the same problem with my 1230.  The Technical Department at Bernina
wrote that there are two possible reasons for this problem.  First, the mechanical part that operates the switch does not make the correct contact with the switch.   Second, the contacts of the on/off switch are occasionally fusing together and causing the switch to remain in the ON position.  An Authorized Bernina Dealer should be able to resolve this issue.  Hope this helps.

Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 11:56:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Greater Cleaning/Tune-up Than I Expected -- $1,100

In a message dated 97-11-06 06:20:41 EST, you write:

>>  I thought I'd send my 1020 in for a cleaning and tune-up.
 I went in today to pick it up, and walked out with a classroom/demo 1530, no
 1020, and $1,100 less in my pocket. >>

I think you did great!  Such a bargain and the 1530 is a great machine.  Your
story reminds me of another one.  My father went down the the local car shop
to replace a tail light and came home with a new car!  It must be something
that crosses generations, time & addictions.
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 11:54:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Remember:  Your Sewing Machine is Really a Power Tool

Janis--Next time your husband asks why you have more than one machine, just
reply it's such a valuable power tool if something goes wrong, you have
another to fall back on (no downtime due to repairs).   My husband was
thrilled when I bought a little portable that sounds like a lawn mower but
sews through  even heavy fabrics like canvas or leather.  We use it to do
repairs on his Boy Scout Troops tents.  It's so simple, Kevin can thread it
and use it without fear (I have instilled FEAR in my husband and our foster
son about touching my Bernina).   When I got my Bernina 5 years ago I
justified the cost because I would use it for many years and it has borne up
beautifully (except for one decorative stitch computer board which I
literally burnt out by using it so much--I make crazy quilts heavily machine
embroidered.  But it was under warranty still so didn't cost me a penny.).  A
good quality sewing machine is a good investment.  Don't be embarrassed about
it.    A cheap sewing machine is like a cheap table saw--you're taking your
chances.  Keep on Quilting.  
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 97 17:16:54 PST8
Subject: Re: Quilters GluTube

     I used the Quilters' GluTube a couple years ago in a reverse applique 
     class I took.  Unfortunately (or fortunately) I am extremely sensitive 
     to chemicals and their smells so I couldn't stand to use the stuff and 
     had to toss it.  I found that the fabric glue worked as well.  
     Also, I took Harriet Hargrave's machine applique class and she uses 
     the fabric glue.
Subject: Re: New Artista 180
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 20:32:07 -0600

Well, just wanted to tell you all about my experience with this machine.  I
got to play on it for 2-1/2 hours this afternoon.  It's just as wonderful as
I thought it would be.  I used the regular sewing machine and played with
the regular and decorative stitches and then used the embroidery unit.  It's
really a neat machine.  There are a couple things that it doesn't have that
the Esante Ese and Brother 8200 do have, one was that it doesn't cut the top
and bobbin threads for you after embroidery and there is no way to adjust
the lcd screen brightness.  After you choose a particular pattern it doesn't
come up with separate boxes to show which part it is going to stitch out
with the color underneath either.  Other than that, it's got lots of the
same features.  Of course, the one big feature that it does have is to
actually change the density of the stitch of a design right on the screen of
the machine itself.  It doesn't even have to be plugged into a computer to
do it either!!!!  When I get a bigger embroidery field machine it will
definitely be this one though.  Thanks for letting me babble about this.


Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 21:25:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: hemmer "dilemmer"

I learned to use the hemmer a different way - no glue - simply pre-fold the
edge as it will look when done, place under foot, drop needle into fabric,
put foot down and take 3 or 4 stitches on the folded fabric.  Then feed the
free fabric into the shell carefully - you may need to lift the foot to do
this.  Since the beginning is already stitched, just continue from that point
on.  You will have to tug on the thread ends to coax it to go thru.  I've
been doing it this way successfully for about 6 years now
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 19:16:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 1230 Won't Shut Off

>A friend of mine has a problem with her 1230.  Sometimes when
>she turns the power button off, the machine does not shut down --
>she must pull the electrical plug out to turn the machine off.

My 1230 has been like this for a few years.I just never got around to having
it checked. I plug it into a switched power strip and then just turn off the
switch on the power strip. 
I imagine that it's an electronic or mechanical switch gone bad.

Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 15:53:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Mail Order Fabric Source

A great mail order fabric source is  They have
wholesale prices and do have scrub prints (I'm a nurse too).  No affiliation
Subject: Re: 1230 Won't Shut Off 
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 19:26:07 +0000

At 11:25 PM 11/5/97 +0000, .Mary in Victoria wrote:

>A friend of mine has a problem with her 1230.  Sometimes when
>she turns the power button off, the machine does not shut down --
>she must pull the electrical plug out to turn the machine off.
>Her service-person is unable to locate the source of the problem.
>Anyone had this problem and know why?

Mary, my 1130 had the same problem a few years back.  At first the problem
was intermittent, then eventually the machine wanted to stay on all the
time.  (Maybe it was a hint that it wanted to get more use????)  Anyway, a
new on/off switch was the answer.

Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 21:44:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rowenta Iron

I just bought a Rowenta iron (a moderately priced model) mfg. suggests if you
have hard water, to dilute with distilled water 1/2-1/2.  Also suggest that
you empty your tank after every use to avoid mineral build up in the tank
from sitting water.
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 23:40:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Greater Cleaning/Tune-up Than I Expected -- $1,100

Gee that sure sounds familiar!  I went to a 1630 club meeting and came home
with a Bernina Nova.  Strange how that works!  Have no memory what was on the
agenda for the club meeting.

Enjoy.  That is a great machine.  

Subject: Re: Sewing on Polartec
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 16:28:59 -0800

There will be good information in the new book "Adventures With
Polarfleece" by Nancy Cornwell.  Should be out shortly.  Nancy ownes
Stretch & Sew Fabrics in Lynwood, WA.  Phone (425) 776-3700.  Look at the
November issue of "Sew News" page 44-45 for an article about polarfleece
which mentions her book.  
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 1997 20:47:29 -0600
Subject: Sewing polar fleece / metallic thread breaking

Ellen  --  For sewing on the regular polar fleece (200-weight), I like
to use 1/2" seams and a regular zigzag stitch.  I set the zigzag for
long stitch length and narrow stitch width.  I haven't found any
advantage to using fancier stretch stitches on polar fleece.  It can be
hard to handle 1/4" seams because the fabric is so thick, which is why I
prefer 1/2".  Decorative topstitching is usually not worth doing,
because the pattern gets buried in the fleece.  PF is a very forgiving
fabric to work with -- you don't have to worry about being super exact
because the stretch compensates for a lot of error, and it never frays.
I recommend washing it only with other PF, though.  Other fabrics
rubbing against it in the washer and dryer can cause it to pill.

Sarita -- Have you lowered the upper tension?  Metallic threads aren't
as strong as regular thread and can't take as much stress.  Also, sewing
slowly helps.  The lube-a-thread stuff that coats the thread just before
it enters the needle can help, although I haven't actually used it.  It
reduces friction on the thread.

Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 21:38:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 1630 version 2 ...stitch length

HELP !!! I was sewing with straight stitch all afternoon with the #20 coded
I changed to the #37 1/4 inch foot ( I just got it and had not used it
I sewed a straight stitch at slow speed  for 6 inches and then heard a low
rubbing noise and I stopped at once. It looked to me like the needle ws
almost  touching the front of the hole in the soleplate . I removed the foot
and put on the #20 once again.I found that I could no longer adjust the
stitch length at all. No movement of the needle or sounds while scrolling to
the different lengths. I can still adjust the stitch width.
I have tried everything I know  ( which is not too much) and still no length
Any suggestion?  I can not get to my point of purchase for the next 6 days!!!
Can't sew at all...........appreciate your speediest assistance. Thanks,
Please note....this is version 2 of the 1630 and I have had machine only 3
weeks.Baught it used.
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 22:16:24 -0600
Subject: Re:  Good Deal on 1031QE

 >I only paid $999 NEW for a 1031 QE.  With all the feet and knee lift.  That
 >was the close out price.  If this is a dealer I would tell them that you
 >they are asking more used than new.  They should be called on their on their
 >attemp to cheat the customer.

Are you sure its a 1031 and not a 1030?  There is about $600 difference in
their list prices.  Also, I was not aware that they had a QE edition in
the 1031.  The 1031 is basically an updated 930, which many feel was the 
best mechanical machine Bernina ever made.

Subject: 1230 power
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 07:41:22 -0500

How nice, a question I can ANSWER instead of always ASKING for help! I also
have a 1230, and have had the same problem with the on/off switch (a friend
who has an 1130 also had the same thing happen). Never really checked into
it with my dealer, since I think I found the solution myself: I plug the
machine into a power strip and then turn it on and off that way! Hope this
helps! Sue 
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 1997 21:02:01 -0600
Subject: machine quilting stitch / Rowenta cleaning

Linda -- The machine quilting stitch that is often discussed is sort of
a mock handquilting stitch.  It's done by using invisible monofilament
thread in the top and adjusting the featherstitch (length, width, and
balance).  If you're like me, you don't normally fiddle with the balance
settings on different stitches, but it's necessary for this effect.
Sorry, I don't have the exact settings handy, but they're posted on the
net somewhere.  They vary for different machine models.  Basically, what
happens is that the invisible thread is used to pull the bobbin thread
up and over for a short distance.  The eye sees only these intermittent
blips of bobbin thread, not the monofilament that's there also, so the
impression is similar to that of a handquilting stitch.  You need to be
aware that the underside of this stitch is not at all like a
handquilting stitch!  As I recall, it's something that you would want to
hide, or at least not draw attention to.  The stitch can be very fast
and effective on a wallhanging where the back doesn't matter a lot.

My Rowenta (non-removable tank) came with strict instructions in the
brochure to use either tap water or a half-and-half solution of tap and
distilled water.  Warned that distilled water could ruin the iron.
Unfortunately, with tap water like ours, mineral buildup is inevitable.
When my iron started sputtering white stuff less than a year after I got
it, and the Rowenta instructions for cleaning (I think it was the
vinegar routine) didn't work, I got desperate.  Mixed up a solution of
Iron Out -- used to clean iron out of water softeners, I think -- and
used that.  Voided the warranty, but did the job.  Since then I've
cleaned my iron this way periodically, dropped it on concrete twice --
it's now pathetically glued and taped together -- and still works
great.  My biggest cleaning problem is getting out the little white
mineral flakes the Iron Out loosens; they get stuck in the steam holes.
It's tedious, but I use a pin in each hole to get out as many as I can.

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 14:22:10 -0600
Subject: Various

Hi, this is my first time writing, however I have been a "lurker" for a
couple of months.  I bought my first Bernina, a 1090, in 1991 and was
immediately hooked.  I upgraded in 1994 to a 1260 which I truly love.  I am
very concerned however that the new line will make it impossible in the
future to get additional feet, etc.  what do you think?  I also have a 004
serger.  I would love to trade up for a new serger but haven't found the
perfect model yet.  Any suggestions?  Also, I will be traveling to the
Layfayette, IN area soon.  Are there any Bernina dealers, quilt shops or
antique shops to visit in that area?

>From Tracie  
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 15:09:31 -0500
Subject: Deco cards

I'm thinking that some of you Deco 500 and 600 owners may have purchased 
the scanner/software AFTER you purchased the Deco cards and may now wish
to sell some of your old Deco cards to me!   Thanks! Ellen
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 16:34:36 EST
Subject: Re: Artista 180

Why do advanced sewing machines cost more than advanced desktop computers?
Actually, this should be easier to understand than it evidently is.  Price of
retail merchandise is directly related to competition and volume (ordinarily).
If pc's only sold at one fifth or less the numbers they do, their prices would
be considerably higher because the cost of production per machine would be
that much higher.

Computer sewing machines are also comples, compound products.  Try vibrating
your desk top at the rate a sewing machine stitches and watch the impact on
cost and price.  You will discover that the Bernina 180 has pretty
sophisticated computing, and software will only expand it;s applications over
time.  The "attached" sewing machine 
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 1997 22:56:45 -0500
Subject: Ceramic Buttons

A good way to protect your ceramic buttons is to sew the button to a 
snap. Then you could unsnap your buttons for the washing and drying 
process.  I am a ceramic artist as well as a seamstress(not sewer) and 
many other things, and yes, the ceramic buttons will eventually craze, 
crack and break on you after going through the washer and dryer. They 
are very pretty, but must be hand washed, and even then, very carefully.

Subject: RE: Fabric Stores
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 14:33:29 -0800

Yes Yes
  Material Possessions in Lake Forest.  22600-C Lambert St #905  Lake
Forest, CA  92630
Phone (714) 586-3418.   You might want to call them before you go.
They are located in a small business/light industrial area.  They could
better give you directions from where you are located than I can. They
have a wonderful large shop with great fabric selection, lots of books,
quilt samples, classes, etc.  Very nice knowledgeable people.  Verna 
Subject: Thank You
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 07:56:20 PST

Hi Everyone,
Just wanted to say thank you to all who have given me names of fabric 
stores and "health spas" for my Bernie.  

You have all been so helpful, I can't wait to get out there.  DH has 
asked me to start packing up my sewing (he calls it "unbelievably 
overwhelming") because he says that once that is packed up we will be  
2/3 packed! Very funny DH! :D  Anyhow, we will now within a few weeks 
just when we will be on our way so I am getting excited. 

Have kept out my Bernie and some projects to finish up so I don't go 
completely mad while waiting.

Keep you posted.

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 22:08:01 -0600
Subject: Re:  1230 won't shut off

Mary   writes:

> A friend of mine has a problem with her 1230.  Sometimes when
> she turns the power button off, the machine does not shut down --
> she must pull the electrical plug out to turn the machine off.
> Her service-person is unable to locate the source of the problem.
> Anyone had this problem and know why?

This has happened to me, and I don't know why.  My sister who worked
with a bernina dealer told me to run it for as long as I could, because
just to open it up was going to cost me dearly.  I ran it that way for 3
years, and lo and behold, last weekend, the machine shut off in
mid-stitch.  I almost had a cow, until as a last ditch effort I tried
the switch.  I had had it turned "off" the whole time, and now the
switch is working again!  

I have no suggestions as to what happened that made it work again.  I
was used to turning it off and on at the power strip.  I think I am
having a spell of extraordinary luck.

Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket...

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 09:12:57 -0600
Subject: New York Fabric stores

I will be going to Manhattan in December and wonder if anyone knows some
good fabric stores - interested more in clothing than crafts.
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 17:38:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rowenta Iron

In a message dated 97-11-06 14:40:53 EST, you write:

>> I  have a rowenta titan plus and need to know if I can use tap water in it. >> 

I have a Rowenta with a titan plate.  I use regular tap water in it, as per
their instructions.  Rowents need some minerals in the water in order to work
properly.  If I lived where it was really hard, I would buy bottled drinking
water and use that, but not distilled water.  Have never noticed a build up
of minerals or spitting of any out of the holes.
Debbie in WA
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 1997 20:50:03 -0500
Subject: Preemie stuff

I don't know nothin' 'bout no babies, Miz Scarlett, but I am intrigued
by the Preemie clothes thread. Sounds like such a neat thing to do. What
kind of material would you use for such tender skin? How about teeny
little quilts? Just how small would you make them? Maybe a little bigger
than they need (but not too big for their special "crib") so they could
use it for a longer period of time?

What other volunteer sewing do y'all do? 

Subject: RE: Rowenta Irons
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 08:08:37 -0800

I just purchased my second Rowenta iron, and I'm taking the advice from
others in this group and am using spring water (from grocery store).  My
first iron lasted well over two years which is surprising because I use
it a lot, and I used the Rowenta filter.  However it's not available any
more; Nancy's Notions used to carry but no longer.  So I'm trying the
spring water suggestion.
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 10:05:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Thanks + Going to Austin

I send a E-mail 1 week ago asking what machine a should buy :a new 1530 or a
used 1630; I had about 20 answers: thanks a lot for all your advises : I
bought a 1530 for 1999$ one year free, a walking foot and a 1/4" foot free
from the Houston quilt festival plus the 3 days class: you cannot imagine how
I am happy; thanks Barbara (she is my teacher) your are doing a great job.
I plan to go to Austin for Thanks Giving ; Can some one tell me where to go
for a nice quilting/fabric store?
Thank you
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 19:47:29 +0000
Subject: Re: 1230 Won't Shut Off

I had the same problem.  The service tech had to replace the switch.  
I was just glad that when it broke the machine was in the on 
position.  That way I could still sew till I was able to get it in to 
be fixed.
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 17:48:31 +0000
Subject: Folkwear patterns

Those of you still looking for Folkwear patterns, I've found a stash
at a shop in Jupiter Florida.  they're marked down, too.  There is an
assortment, so you'll have to call and see if she has the one(s)
you're looking for.  I picked up the Moroccan Burnoose (floor length
cape with hood) and the Syrian Dress (floor length with pushup sleeves

and v-panel in the front).

She also has some of Lois Erickson's patterns and a full line of Burda

The Sewing Club
Carole Butterworth
1695 W. Indiantown Rd.
Jupiter FL  33458
open Mon-Sat, 9-4
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 18:06:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Pattern systems - which do you use?

We had a clothing project to do for a sewing machine company contest and
national meeting, and we decided to try the bonfit patterner since we have to
adjust pattern so much for my wife because she is not 5'6" or the same size
10 the pattern companies go by.  They worked so well we now carry them in our
shop and teach fitting with them.  They are particularly useful for the
majority of us who are not the exact shape that the pattern companies use for
their generalized sloper or pattern.  We highly recommend them.  They come
with an excellent book and a video.  Wish you luck.  The bonus is you have a
perfect pattern you can make into any style of garment of the same type
(pants, top/dress, skirt, and more depending on which patterner you buy).

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 15:26:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Barney trim, and other things...

Hi everybody!!

Does anyone have a good source, online or no, for trims, or binding?  What
I'm looking for specifically is Barney (insert copyright sign here) trim
and maybe an applique.  Reason:  While Barney makes me ill (did anyone
catch the San Diego chicken beating up Barney?  Funniest thing I've ever
seen), my boyfriend's 3 yo niece LOVES Barney, and I though it would be
cute to make her a purple polar fleece coat with Barney things on for
Xmas.  Besides, I wanted an excuse to visit the Malden Mills outlet.  

In response to Lisa's "get a life" story, you go girl!!  I work in a
male-dominated industry (computer network stuff), and I"ve found that as
long as you relate your creative hobby with something the guys understand,
it's cool and they think your hobby is cool.  Additionally, I'm lucky in
that I have a co-worker (male) who sews.  Rarely have I come across that
sort of attitude, even from my boyfriend's family, who don't seem to do
anything creative, except shop at Nordstrom's.  :-)

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 17:16:47 -0600
Subject: walking foot 

My walking foot sticks everytime it has to "walk" over many thicknesses.
Should I buy a new one?  (or)  can this one be repaired?
Please advise.
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 11:44:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Christmas  Decorations

I can take MchineQltr's instructions on making mock cathedral window
ornaments one step further....

After you've done all her directions, if you place the ornament face down and
turn back the four corners, meeting them in the center and giving them a
quick stitch to hold them in place, you have a whole new look called "fragile

I've made fragile flowers by the dozens and used them as ornaments, coasters
(a bunch tied in a stack makes a neat gift), and I have whip stitched them
together to use like dresser scarves.    When you whip stitch a bunch
together, you can play with the pattern on both sides of the "flower" and get
very interesting patterns.  I've even seen whole wall hangings of "fragile

Hope these directions were clear.  This really is nothing more than "fabric

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 11:40:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: A Lightweight Bernina...

Also there is a machine called the minimatic.  It is a 70? something.  I have
some information on it somewheres I think tucked away.  Someone has one for
sale...or did.  If anyone is interested and I can find the email address
(from a few days ago) I will forward it to you so that you may check into it.
For me however, it is the 930 or nothing.  :-)  Mel
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 10:45:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Dress Forms

Bernina wrote:
> Has anyone had any experience w/dress forms i.e. Twin Fit or My Double.  I
> would appreciate any info pro or con.  You can e-mail me privately or send
> reply here. TIA
> Sheri

Hi Sheri,

I'm making a "My Twin" form. I've been wrapped in the cast so far and
it's now cut in half, waiting for me to strenghten any weak places
before lacing it together and pouring the foam in. It's going to be a
good accurate(drat) form once finished. I bought the whole kit, stand
and all from Carol Zahn in Calif. The stand is a nicely finished wood.
You can add wheels if you want to.

I give this one really good marks. Just wear a bra with molded cups
while being wrapped as a soft one tends to get just slightly squashed a
bit. I'm going to pad my form up a little.

Good Luck,
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 09:43:50 +0000
Subject: Re: 530


Finally...someone else with a 530!!!

I found mine about 10 years ago at a flea market, and it couldn't stitch a
single stitch.  Snapped it up for $25.  I took it to my local Bernina wizard,
and for an additional $75, I got a wonderful 14-stitch Bernie.  We figured out
it was made in 1954 (I think).  I have no idea what wizardry he did, but it's
champ.  Nice partner for my 1230 and featherweight...

Enjoy has some stitches that I love, and that my 1230 doesn't have, so
it definietly gets used.

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 08:21:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: labels in clothing....

You could always write the name and phone number on the collar interfacing
- -centered - or in the hem with your machine writing.  Even if it was
reversible, you probably wouldn't notice a name and phone number at the very
bottom..  but I think sometimes when it is obvious, somehow it doesn't get "lost" quite so easily.
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 07:35:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Bernina Dealers in Houston

Welcome to Big "H"

IMHO - There is no better dealer than Gerry and Marsh Henshaw at Sew Contempo
on NASA Rd. 1 in Webster.  They carry a full line of machines as well as
beautiful fabric, patterns and notions.  I have dealt with them for years and
they are honest, caring and the most friendly of places...  

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 06:30:28 -0600
Subject: Re: #69 Foot

> Do any of you have exprience with the #69 foot? I'm not sure what it's
> called but it kinda makes a rolled hem. I sure need tips on how to use
> the darn thing. I've read the directions and played with it a bit, but
> still can't seem to use it right. Any ideas?

I have not mastered the technique yet either but I purchased a book
which I think is going to be most helpful in this area.  It was
recommended by the people on this list.  It is "Fine Machine Sewing" by
Carol Ahles.  I got my copy from Softwear Productions.  

Hope this helps.

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 03:38:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rowenta Iron

  Just to be on the safe side, I would NOT use tap water in your iron.
Sediments DO build up whenever it is used, and they can and will clog up your
iron. for cleaning, I use a mixture of 1 part white vinegar to two parts
water. Just like cleaning out your coffee pot from build up. The vinegar wont
hurt your iron, and will clean the crud out.

  Hope this helps. 
Subject: Re: Dress Forms
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 23:00:40 -0800

Just had to respond to this - even though I do not have experience with the
two mentioned brands, I DO have experience with the Duct Tape Double, and
have been designing clothing for myself since July, using the DTD.  I have
also constructed a DTD for my hip/thigh only, and that gets me a pair of
pants that fit like the tailor in the fancy shop made them for me!!

If you would like more information, E-mail me privately, as I have posted
the instructions on this forum previously.  There is also a net address for
a gal who put the original instructions together, which is where I got the

DeAnn & her 830 
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 22:49:50 -0800
Subject: Polarfleece!

Discount Fabrics in San Francisco had quite a nice sale (about $5/yd) on
solid-colored fleece. I think some of it was the 200 Malden Mills quality.
Anyway we took all the red at the Haight St. store, but there's still some
white, gray, gray print, plum, black, and navy blue for the rest of you at
$6-$7/yd. ;D

My inspiration was the Lands End catalog, listing a twin blanket (60" x
72") for $85. That's 2 yards with a blanket stitch edging - although the
same thing in the department stores is $15-$18. Lands End also had a very
cute fleece teddy bear...

Anyway, I'm thinking of making sleeping bags (Cambridge Systems' pattern,
start with a piece 60" x 66", fold in half lengthwise. Maybe use Velcro
instead of a 20" zipper), maybe a jacket from a Burda pattern, mittens,
etc. This stuff is so great, I almost regret living in a temperate climate.

So, does anyone have a source for polarfleece socks? And if I use the
serger, what stitch should I use (3-stitch flatlock? or overlock?) I have a
3-4 thread serger.

Subject: Re: Bernina Dealers in Houston
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 20:34:42 -0600

I bought mine from Sew Contempo in Clear Lake, which is just southeast of
Houston.  It's a small shop which mainly specializes in quilting, but they
are very friendly and give good service.  They also have a Bernina club and


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